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I have had similar issues and have found that it occurs when using the fob to open it instead of the button on the arm rest. Not sure if the correlation is in the signal strength/length to the solenoid, but when I open it with the button it latches easily.
 

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The design of the latch is STOOOPID. It doesn't sense whether it's "open" or "closed". When you squeeze the trunk release, sometimes it'll "double pump", it acts like you gave it two squeezes and that leaves the latch in the wrong state. If you close the trunk once that's happened, it doesn't latch unless you slam it really, really hard. But instead of trying again slamming it harder, if the trunk doesn't latch easily first time, just squeeze the release (it'll click) one more time and I'm willing to bet the trunk will latch exactly like you'd expect.
 

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Your latch is out of adjustment. Move your latch slightly higher and moderately tighten the screws. If the trunk closes as you desire, open the trunk and fully tighten the screws.
I'm guessing that the trunk for the spoiler has holes in it for the spoiler, that the trunk for a regular CTS does not.
So I suppose the part I am getting will work because it does not require any drilling...just 3M and some heavy-duty adhesive glue stuff...
 

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The stock spoiler has the 3rd brake light integrated in to it, so there's got to be a hole for the wires. If you're getting an aftermarket spoiler, my guess would be that it'd fit either trunk type since whether or not there's a hole for wires doesn't matter to a spoiler that doesn't have a 3rd brake light...
 

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I'm guessing that the trunk for the spoiler has holes in it for the spoiler, that the trunk for a regular CTS does not.
the light is different
Same width and footprint in relation to the trunk panel. Same mounting holes. Different height and angle from horizontal.


Devildog,
0300? S4? I'm kidding!

If you did buy the spoiler you found for the non-V, you will need a third brake light also from a non-V
 
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