Might want to ask your tuner. Are you sure you are reading those numbers correctly? If you have a cam or no cats in open loop it is common to lean out the idle some. But glowing headers at idle could indicate excessively retarded timing
2012 CTSV SW LTH Glowing Red??
I really need some help with this from all of you. My 2012 V has a long list of mods done to it. Bottom end has been built, Ported/Polished heads, Port/Polished Supercharger, 2.40” upper, with full cooling mods, etc…
I never had a vehicle have glowing, red headers after only warming up for 3 minutes. ETC doesn’t even reach 120 degrees before it does it?
Can someone verify my stoich AFR [12300] is correct? The previous tuner had it set at varying from 17.27832 to 10.87744. I just received my new tune (from a well known tuner you all know) and now it’s set at 29.35645 to 17.95605? Is this common to have high numbers like this?
I have NO idea why my headers are glowing like that.. they are all doing it. I am by no means wealthy, I don’t want to see all my hard work go down the drain. I really don’t even want to start it in fear of something catching fire. I have no idea where to go from here.
I never had a vehicle have glowing, red headers after only warming up for 3 minutes. ETC doesn’t even reach 120 degrees before it does it?
Can someone verify my stoich AFR [12300] is correct? The previous tuner had it set at varying from 17.27832 to 10.87744. I just received my new tune (from a well known tuner you all know) and now it’s set at 29.35645 to 17.95605? Is this common to have high numbers like this?
I have NO idea why my headers are glowing like that.. they are all doing it. I am by no means wealthy, I don’t want to see all my hard work go down the drain. I really don’t even want to start it in fear of something catching fire. I have no idea where to go from here.
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15.4 to 9.4 (0 to 100) is where my 12300 is set
It seems to be hard to get ahold of him. I made a mention of the glowing headers but I never got a response back.Might want to ask your tuner. Are you sure you are reading those numbers correctly? If you have a cam or no cats in open loop it is common to lean out the idle some. But glowing headers at idle could indicate excessively retarded timing
Yes that’s correct. I’m currently reading those numbers right in front of me. The only difference between the car now and before is I went from a BTR Stage 3 cam to a BTR Stage 2 cam and I have a forged bottom end.That’s all the difference.
Your build looks greater than mine. Why do you think mine is so high?15.4 to 9.4 (0 to 100) is where my 12300 is set
Could be a different approach as there's more tables for fuel control. Let Pat know your issue and he will take care of it.
I’ll send him an email in the morning about it. Thank you.Could be a different approach as there's more tables for fuel control. Let Pat know your issue and he will take care of it.
Out of curiosity, what does your wideband read at idle?
Had this happen on my 1985 Corvette. The alternator was going out and the injection was way lean as a result. New alternator corrected the problem. Might be a tune issue but check the volts.
Regarding the AFR, the current value you see appears to reflect injector characterization for larger after market injectors. 29.35645/2=14.678. As far as the concern with high temp headers, they do get very hot, do you have a wideband hooked-up to monitor, what are oil pressure and oil temperature readings?I really need some help with this from all of you. My 2012 V has a long list of mods done to it. Bottom end has been built, Ported/Polished heads, Port/Polished Supercharger, 2.40” upper, with full cooling mods, etc…
I never had a vehicle have glowing, red headers after only warming up for 3 minutes. ETC doesn’t even reach 120 degrees before it does it?
Can someone verify my stoich AFR [12300] is correct? The previous tuner had it set at varying from 17.27832 to 10.87744. I just received my new tune (from a well known tuner you all know) and now it’s set at 29.35645 to 17.95605? Is this common to have high numbers like this?
I have NO idea why my headers are glowing like that.. they are all doing it. I am by no means wealthy, I don’t want to see all my hard work go down the drain. I really don’t even want to start it in fear of something catching fire. I have no idea where to go from here.
I currently don’t have a WB at the moment, I’m waiting on one to come in.Out of curiosity, what does your wideband read at idle?
I do have ID1300’s installed. The color of those headers look like lava, it scares the hell out of me considering how tight that engine bay is with everything around it. My oil pressure on a warm idle (can’t tell you what hot idle is because it can’t reach that point) sits at 48-52. I’ll check and see what oil temperature is.Regarding the AFR, the current value you see appears to reflect injector characterization for larger after market injectors. 29.35645/2=14.678. As far as the concern with high temp headers, they do get very hot, do you have a wideband hooked-up to monitor, what are oil pressure and oil temperature readings?
You can check your short term fuel at idle and see if you are running lean without a wideband, but the heat you are concerned about could be normal or it may be due to an oiling issue? Hard to tell without gauges.I currently don’t have a WB at the moment, I’m waiting on one to come in.
You can check your short term fuel at idle and see if you are running lean without a wideband, but the heat you are concerned about could be normal or it may be due to an oiling issue? Hard to tell without gauges. LAVA color is a problem if you are only at idle and cruise!
I can check that now. What are your average STFT numbers? Could you explain to me what type of oiling issues I could have that could cause that?You can check your short term fuel at idle and see if you are running lean without a wideband, but the heat you are concerned about could be normal or it may be due to an oiling issue? Hard to tell without gauges.
LAVA definitely is not good at idle and cruise!You can check your short term fuel at idle and see if you are running lean without a wideband, but the heat you are concerned about could be normal or it may be due to an oiling issue? Hard to tell without gauges.
Do you have HP Tuners or some way to monitor fuel trims?
You need to see where you are. You are trying to get around +/- 5% for trims for idle and cruise.
You need to see where you are. You are trying to get around +/- 5% for trims for idle and cruise.
Okay maybe I’m overreacting with that, but it’s definitely getting red even when it’s bright and sunny out I’m seeing it.LAVA definitely is not good at idle and cruise!
I just don't think it should be near red at all unless really hitting it hard? If you engine is not getting oiled properly for some reason, even at idle, it will get hot VERY fast, not good, especially if it is glowing red! Oil pressure does not necessarily mean you have good flow in all cases, most of the time if there is some resistance causing excessive heat you hear irregular noise.Okay maybe I’m overreacting with that, but it’s definitely getting red even when it’s bright and sunny out I’m seeing it.
Yes I have HPTuners, that’s what im using to monitor it. I know it’s not very efficient but it’s better than nothing. Im looking now at my trims. Here’s my trims.Do you have HP Tuners or some way to monitor fuel trims?
You need to see where you are. You are trying to get around +/- 5% for trims for idle and cruise.
Under 2%, +/- 5% is an average target.I can check that now. What are your average STFT numbers? Could you explain to me what type of oiling issues I could have that could cause that?
I agree! I have had multiple 700hp+ vehicles, never had this issue before. I have listened to the engine and it sounds so quiet and smooth. The whole engine has been cleaned, new Melling 10355 oil pump, I even bought new oil piston squirters because the old ones had bearing bits inside them. It has to be a tuning issue, but I could be wrong.I just don't think it should be near red at all unless really hitting it hard? If you engine is not getting oiled properly for some reason, even at idle, it will get hot VERY fast, not good, especially if it is glowing red! Oil pressure does not necessarily mean you have good flow in all cases, most of the time if there is some resistance causing excessive heat you hear irregular noise.
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