Cadillac CTS-V Forum banner
361 - 380 of 390 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #361 ·
I had the headers on then off then back on last night. I had to move the wiring on the driver’s side around the oil cooler lines, it was too close to the header.

I guess the exhaust bolt threads are shallower in the brodix heads. The stock replacement 30mm long bolts I had used previously bottomed out. They were also a bit beat up from being in and out a few times. I ordered new ARP stainless bolts.

Just some tidying up of loose ends a waiting on a couple parts.

152871
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #362 ·
My pushrods were supposed to be here today but UPS rescheduled delivery for tomorrow.

I took out my frustration on the Carlyle calipers with some sandpaper. I suck at painting so I tried really hard to prep it all perfectly and go light on the paint for a couple coats then a medium coat to prevent runs. I think they look good so far. Not super glossy so I’ll probably put a coat of clear on them after I put the V logo stickers on.


153028

153029

I’m trying to make them look like the stock rear calipers.
153030
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #364 ·
Looks like the pushrods are there!
They’re already in the motor and I’m buttoning it all up after dinner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
Also, a new untapped fuel tank and ALM stage 2 hat…
Planning to do the same over here—did you go the dealer route or wrecker? (Heard the base cts tanks work and are the same part number)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #366 ·
Planning to do the same over here—did you go the dealer route or wrecker? (Heard the base cts tanks work and are the same part number)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I bought it from MYV when he sold a bunch of parts after selling his car. Look like he got it from Cleveland performance that sells all the turn key late model engine swaps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #367 · (Edited)
After dinner, I buttoned it all up and filled it with oil. Then I cranked it without spark plugs in it to build oil pressure. Once I saw 20 psi, it was time.


Drum Roll!!!
And... it ran like shit. It eventually idled, but sounded off and wouldn't respond to throttle. I was happy enough to hear it run, so I was ready to call it a night. I was very happy to see it make 80+ psi of cold oil pressure with 10W30 VR1. :D I was stressing that it wouldn't make enough with just a 10296 pump. Good grief, now I'm worried it might make too much.

I couldn't just quit though. I had a little time to mess around with the HX hoses and saw that I forgot to plug the vacuum brake booster hose back up. Bingo, now it runs like it should.

I'll fill it with coolant tomorrow night and hopefully go for a ride.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #368 · (Edited)
153065


I took it for a spin around town. It needs serious idle tuning. But otherwise it's all good.

36 psi of hot oil pressure at idle after everything got good and hot.

153066
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #370 ·
There is more clearance to the pulley with the newer flat motor 103mm but it changes the tuning and is not a plug n play deal
This is good info. I didn’t think it would change that drastically but Random reported the same thing in his thread. Mine is struggling to find idle once it’s warmed up. I’ve not had to tune this before, so I get to create a new histogram.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
For what it's worth, mine turned out okay by adjusting the etc scalar, but I went a few steps farther and redid the virtual torque and also the ECT multiplier on idle airflow, and it made it even better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #372 · (Edited)
The scalar helped it get from about 50% good to 80%.

I datalogged airflow vs rpm and let it idle for a while. I was getting ~105lb/hr airflow from 400-1000 rpm and my "final Idle airflow" table was at 85. I added the logged numbers and interpolated everything else and that got it to 90% good. I bumped it up another 10% and it's really good now. It sounds better too.

I think this has been a problem since it was tuned a few years ago. That tuner was trying to use the spark adder tables to fix it and never could get it consistent. It would occasionally die with the stock throttlebody and the 102.

Now I found a small leak on the coolant line running from the water pump to the oil cooler. This hose leaked when I did heads and cam in 2016 and I put a new piece of rubber on it with worm gear clamps. One of those clamps doesn't seem to be tightening down well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: loweredd

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #374 ·
I fixed the hose problem last night, I still had 6' of the 3/8" heater hose left over from last time and some smaller hose clamps. Afterwards, I drove it to a friends shop one town over to put miles on it and put it on his lift for a once over. Everything looked good, so I drove it to work this morning.

I was hesitant to spend so much money to build a motor that's mostly the same as the one I pulled out. But I'm glad that I did. No cam change, marginal compression change. The only real change was better heads and adding strength to the bottom end. But, I really liked how it drove before. Now it's just a stronger and more reliable version of the previous motor. It's probably placebo, but this motor feels much smoother than I remember the old one feeling. It still drives great.

153103
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,341 Posts
The scalar helped it get from about 50% good to 80%.

I datalogged airflow vs rpm and let it idle for a while. I was getting ~105lb/hr airflow from 400-1000 rpm and my "final Idle airflow" table was at 85. I added the logged numbers and interpolated everything else and that got it to 90% good. I bumped it up another 10% and it's really good now. It sounds better too.

I think this has been a problem since it was tuned a few years ago. That tuner was trying to use the spark adder tables to fix it and never could get it consistent. It would occasionally die with the stock throttlebody and the 102.

Now I found a small leak on the coolant line running from the water pump to the oil cooler. This hose leaked when I did heads and cam in 2016 and I put a new piece of rubber on it with worm gear clamps. One of those clamps doesn't seem to be tightening down well.
I get an underspeed condition every time I touch the pedal or rev. I might have to revisit your steps as the underspeed dip - as brief as it is - is the only last bit I haven't been able to cure...

And it's annoying as hell!

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #377 ·

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #378 ·
I’m at about 200 miles into breakin on the new motor. Hurricane Remnants passed through Tuesday so I didn’t drive it for a couple days.

I don’t remember when it started, but even with the old motor, I had a stumble around 1500rpm when talking off from a stop with moderate throttle. I did a long datalog on my way to work this morning trying to make it do it. Sure enough there was a big lean hole around 1500rpm. I made a vve fix and it’s pretty much gone. I swear this is the best it’s ever driven. I could put my mom in the car and she’d barely notice it’s not stock. That’s insane for an ~800rwhp car. I can’t take any credit for it, but it’s all about the tune. It’s a combination of James Short, Bluecat and LT1Z’s tuning and advice. I just tweaked a few things. Damn, this car continues to amaze me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #379 · (Edited)
I'm doing the last bits of upgrades and rebuilding.

New to me used untapped fuel tank with ALM stage 2 hat and fuel tank access hatch.
Rebuild stock diff, new bearings and seals.
Carlyle 15" brake conversion and lower control arm modification
New rear magride shocks

I tore it all apart last night and cleaned everything up. Today I cut the access hole and put the fuel tank back in.
153329

All cleaned up and painted. I'll fabricate an aluminum cover once I get the car back to my house.
153330

153332

153331

153333

153334
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #380 ·
ALM hat and pump assembly installed
153344

153345


I pulled the diff apart and it's in pretty good shape. I'm going to think about it overnight, but I might just put it back together as is. At the most I might put the carrier bearings in and leave the pinion as is.

153346

153347
 
  • Like
Reactions: MYV and V_Wagon
361 - 380 of 390 Posts
Top