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Discussion Starter · #341 ·
Those are meaty looking sleeves. Darton?

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Yes, darton sleeved 5.3 block. It’s got a little more meat around the mains than an LSA block.
 

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Booyah!

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Discussion Starter · #343 · (Edited)
I got most of the bottom end buttoned up. I can't put the barbell and rear cover on until the engine comes off the stand so the pan isn't on for good yet. The heads aren't bolted on, just sitting there.
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I ported the oil pump and shimmed it into place. I put an extremely light film of rtv on the pump to block hole and on the cover over the gears. It's probably not going to do anything, but it can't hurt. FYI for anyone looking at this. I'm running a smaller 10296 pump because I don't have oil squirters on this block.
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I got this pan and pickup from sbchris. I put an improved racing baffle in the pan. The pickup to pan clearance is .3"
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Discussion Starter · #344 ·
Last night, I got the shortblock off the stand and installed the barbell and rear cover and decided to go ahead and dress it out to go back in the car.
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A picture of the improved racing baffle while I had the pan off one last time.
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Tonight I used a friends mill to lightly clearance the BTR rocker stands to fit the Brodix heads. It didn't take much.
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The machined area behind the valves is smaller on a stock LS3/A/9 head.
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You can kinda see where I had to mill out some of the radius and chamfer the edge more.
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Now that those were done, time to check piston to valve clearance. There might as well be a mile, the measurements below are without a head gasket.
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intake
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exhaust

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I'm going to clean the head really well and get it all back together and bolt on. But one last picture of the runners with the valves out. No need for any blending in these, the valve job and porting looks top notch.
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Discussion Starter · #345 ·
I was pretty nervous about torqueing these 625 studs to 100ft.lb. because I know some people pull the threads out of aluminum blocks with them. Luckily that didn't happen. Now I can measure for pushrods, but I'll save that for a weekend project so I can concentrate and get them right on. Really hoping I can go to all the same length PR's with 2110 lifters.

It's been out of commission for 3 months, hopefully that can change soon.
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I sent my injectors off to be cleaned and they should be back tomorrow or Friday.
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With that new style throttle body can you change belts without removing the pulley or throttle body? (My old 102mm TB is a PITA)


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With that new style throttle body can you change belts without removing the pulley or throttle body? (My old 102mm TB is a PITA)


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There is more clearance to the pulley with the newer flat motor 103mm but it changes the tuning and is not a plug n play deal
 

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Discussion Starter · #349 ·
I had to have a spacer with the 102 boosted throttle body.

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Thanks for the top down pic. Spacer might mess with drivability though if nothing else is changed?

Sorry for the derail—can’t wait to see what this new combo does in the quarter!


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Discussion Starter · #351 ·
No spacer on this one.

I don’t think it affected drivability with the old throttle body. It was one of the 3/8 think o-ringed spacers from 0fx2gv.
 
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Discussion Starter · #352 ·
Yesterday I got all the bellhousing and motor mount bolts in and tight, bolted up all the accessories and hooked up all the wiring other than the stuff on top. A friend is coming to help me set the blower back on this evening. Then just headers, belts, fluids and the pushrods remain.

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Nice to see things coming together. What's your plan for running the engine in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #354 ·
Nice to see things coming together. What's your plan for running the engine in?
Nothing special. Just make sure there are no issues and drive it to work a few times then change the oil. My tune shouldn't have drastically changed, but once I confirm that's all still good I'll put the 15" wheel stuff on and hit the track.
 
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Nothing special. Just make sure there are no issues and drive it to work a few times then change the oil. My tune shouldn't have drastically changed, but once I confirm that's all still good I'll put the 15" wheel stuff on and hit the track.
Nice. Those 15s should treat you well! Did you pick the front tires up on your previous runs? If not....I bet they go up now, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #356 ·
This is about 150hp ago. I'm putting all new magnaride shocks and struts on when I do the 15" conversion. Also, a new untapped fuel tank and ALM stage 2 hat and rebuilding the stock diff as a preventative measure.

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Discussion Starter · #358 ·
New pinion and carrier bearings w/ races and all new seals. I have a carrier shim set if anything changes with the backlash. I'm assuming at this point since my diff is relatively quiet that there is no damage to the gearset. That's why I say preventative.
 

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Discussion Starter · #360 ·
I’ve had all this for at least 2 years, I got the part numbers from another thread here. CTS-V Rear Differential Part Numbers

2 axle seals
1 pinion seal
Shim kit
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the national part numbers are carrier bearings. The timken are pinion bearing and corresponding races.
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