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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I recently bought a highly modded 2011 CTS V. This is my first forced induction car so a lot of the problem is the car might as well run off fusion for as much as I know about them or their tendencies. The issue at hand is that the car has an Aeroforce gauge and displays extremely high IAT2s even if the car hasn't been driven long at all. For instance, my commute from work to home is a 35 minute drive and after remote starting the car to let it run 5 minutes before I left, a mile into the trip the gauge is showing 200+ IAT2 temps on a 70 degree day. The car has an upper and lower Vadder heat exchanger and pump as well as a 2 gallon ice tank under the hood. Researching this issue, I came across this video on how to remove air from the system-


I haven't tried anything from the video yet and chose to ask some more questions after watching it here because it mentions that if you have an icebox system, you don't even have to follow the steps in the video. So because I am dense, can someone explain to me why since the uploader doesn't explain why? I'm basically trying to rule out air before moving on to a bad sensor or something else. Also, is the uploader's method viable?

The forum has already been immensely helpful in the General questions section- I am just posting here for more focused visibility since after I get this resolved I'm sure I will have 100 more other specific questions about the car (like how to stop that damn infuraiting drivers side seat squeak). Here is that aforementioned thread- In the market for a Gen 2 V. What do I need to look for?

Parts list from that thread-


(2.38/9.45 pulleys), ZL1 lid,

FBO,
Engine-
Frankenstein heads
Btr PDS Stage 3 cam.
Manley Pushrods
CHE Trunion upgrade.
High volume oil pump

Blower-
Milled ZL1 lid
Reinforced brick
Grip tech 2.38 whole upper assembly
ATI/DSX 9.45 lower and relocation bracket

Fuel
ID 1080S
DSX flex fuel sensor
DSX auxillary pump

Cooling-
Vadar upper and lower heat exchanger
2 gallon BMR tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What HX Pump are you running? If still using the stock unit, there's a chance it failed.
Funny enough, pretty much all of the parts purchased for the car came from Mont Motorsports. The previous owner has 20-30 receipt images from Mont he sent me but wasn't the guy who purchased the work or parts. The pump listed is a Varimax pump purchased through you guys but is there a way for me to test for functional operation? I'm not sure where its even located. I also just checked for the filler neck like in the youtube video I linked but thats where the car's icebox is located. Theres also a drainage valve/tube coming off of the box. I'm hoping that may make my life easier getting air out if thats the issue?
 

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@DesiretoV can you hear/see evidence of flow when the key is on but the engine isn't running?
 

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150240


You can see the pump peeking out in this pic, pull the splash shield and it's right there on the pass side. Maybe you could have someone cycle the key and see if it's humming.
 

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View attachment 150240

You can see the pump peeking out in this pic, pull the splash shield and it's right there on the pass side. Maybe you could have someone cycle the key and see if it's humming.
I like the PWA 100 pump because you can really see and hear the flow through the ice tank.
 

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With my icebox vadder and pump it bleeds itself in like 15 seconds so idk how you could have air in it. I'd lean towards sensor or wiring, or looking at the wrong PID.
 

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If there is water/fluid in the HX system, I'd say you might need to pull the lid an see if they maybe forgot the orange rubber gasket that seals the brick to the SC. People have left them out an it will make Temps soar.
Good luck

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
If there is water/fluid in the HX system, I'd say you might need to pull the lid an see if they maybe forgot the orange rubber gasket that seals the brick to the SC. People have left them out an it will make Temps soar.
Good luck

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Potentially silly question- can I do this without introducing air to the system? When I searched on this forum I found the thread where the guy was having the same thing happening and it ended up being that gasket.

@Blades, I verified the pump engaged just now when I turned the key.

@alunimum360 it is entirely possible I am mildly retarded and am looking at the wrong thing. Hell I hope thats the case. But the values I am looking at are clearly labeled IAT1 and IAT2. At first I thought it might be the gauge just being off but robby mentioned its read off the OBD port. Is there anything else I can do to verify a fault connection?
 

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Do you need to enter in tbe pids with an Aeroforce? Maybe the person entered the wrong codes.
 

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You can pull the lid without opening the heat exchanger system, it's just a small radiator inside the lid. That said you may not be able to get to the front bolts of the lid if the fittings and hoses are set up like mine.
 

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Honestly at this point, drain a little off your ice tank and pull the top hose off at the lid, grab a length of 3/4 hose and pump the fluid into a clean bucket, this will verify flow. Then take the bottom hose off the lid, pull the lid and look for the orange isolator gasket. If it's not in there run to your local gm dealer and grab one.
 

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You don't get 200 IATs unless your pump is not working. Period. I'd even question that if your intercooler gasket is missing as that should only be an issue under boost.


Check the wiring and fuses before spending more money, and make sure the pump isn't air locked by partially removing the feed hose until fluid comes out.

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Check the wiring and fuses before spending more money, and make sure the pump isn't air locked by partially removing the feed hose until fluid comes out.

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This exactly. Check the pump for cavitation and or a feed line issue, only if you verified power at the pump is working.



What ice tank are you running? Some of the older tanks would aerate the feed line on hard turns and send the pump into fail safe (varimax pumps will do this.) Temps would be fine for a bit and then spike and not recover. Temps would be in the 185-200 range.


Bleeding tips below.

If you have the stock T on the car, you can pull a vacuum on HX loop to remove all the air—look up an airlift tool.

If you don’t have a stock T but have a bleed port on the HX, use a Mightyvac to draw air out of the system.



If the car is always at 200+, hx pump has power, water flowing in tank, check for the orange gasket as mentioned.


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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
This exactly. Check the pump for cavitation and or a feed line issue, only if you verified power at the pump is working.



What ice tank are you running? Some of the older tanks would aerate the feed line on hard turns and send the pump into fail safe (varimax pumps will do this.) Temps would be fine for a bit and then spike and not recover. Temps would be in the 185-200 range.


Bleeding tips below.

If you have the stock T on the car, you can pull a vacuum on HX loop to remove all the air—look up an airlift tool.

If you don’t have a stock T but have a bleed port on the HX, use a Mightyvac to draw air out of the system.



If the car is always at 200+, hx pump has power, water flowing in tank, check for the orange gasket as mentioned.


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Edit- potentially my silliest question yet but is it normal for the heat exchanger reservoir to be bone dry? I'm under the impression it is unless you're putting ice in it for a track run but got to wondering after watching this video-
 

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Which port is hooked up to the feed line? I thought BMR used a rod with tiny holes in the tube as the feed in the back of the box?

I had a BMR box years ago but I cut it up and reconfigured it. It would choke the feed to my pump like crazy.


Just saw your edit.

Fill the tank so it is almost full but has room to expand. Fluid should be 2/3” below the top.

If the tank is bone dry you found your issue. Nothing is feeding the pump.


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Edit- potentially my silliest question yet but is it normal for the heat exchanger reservoir to be bone dry? I'm under the impression it is unless you're putting ice in it for a track run but got to wondering after watching this video-
No
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Copying what I stated in my other thread-

So I think I just found my problem. I filled the BMR reservoir with some ice and distilled water and heard my pump engaged- and watched as the Vadder heat exchangers started leaking water like crazy. Just absolutely wonderful. Within a minute the reservoir was empty again- and the ball cock on the drain line was closed. So how the hell do you even begin to stop a leak in a heat exchanger? I dont have a good way to get under the car so it was hard to see but the leaks definitely seem to be coming from the radiators themselves, not a line. Guess I just got screwed.
 

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Likely a fitting. If you go to my heads cam install in the how to section you can see the bumper removal and the vadder setup
 
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