If there were flakes in the oil I surely wouldn't be putting it on a dyno. That is a good way to really hit your wallet and have a catastrophic failure!
09 V misfire issues.
Thanks for checking out the post. Little back story but the cars a 09 m6 49,587miles. Has the Lingenfelter intake pipe, 86lb injectors (unknown brand), 9.5" lower pulley, track attack HX, vader bumper tank, re-enforced brick, solid isolator, American racing headers/full exhaust to corsa sport mufflers, tuned once back Texas speed who was the first owner of the car, then again back in 2013 by RPM motorsports in Delaware. I bought the car back in 21 and didn't change anything on it for most of the first year. Last summer/fall I started to notice in the lower gears it would feel like the clutch was slipping around 2k, I never thought of a misfire because i never got any lights on the dash and it was very intermittent. This was after i did the isolator, track attack and the bumper tank. Fast forward to October of 22 and I took the car in to a local shop to have the American racing exhaust put on it, new era 4.5" intake, and the car retuned. At the same time they did a coolant flush with a 160* stat. They had it on the dyno and were getting the misfires like crazy and nothing tune wise would change it. They tried new plugs (it had TR7iX when it went there, they put in BR7EF) and wires, still there. They then smoked the intake to look for leaks and found the lid and intake gaskets were leaking (possibly from when I did the isolator) Replaced the intake gaskets, supercharger lid and brick gaskets. Still had the misfire. They then were looking into the intake runners and noticed 1&7 had a coating of oil in them. They checked the catch can and found the oil to be glittery, drained the oil and found metal in the oil. It was at this point everything stopped, I had them put the car back together and i picked it up on a trailer to bring it home. The car has sat since this week when I started to dive into it again after talking with a different shop/engine builder. I was under the impression that the motors on its way out with the metal in the oil and reading all the post on bearing failures with the LSA motor. I never actually saw the filter with the bronze material in it that the shop found, nor did I ever see the 1&7 intake runners. The shop I recently talked with Phoenixville Performance wants to see what the car does on their dyno before talking about pulling the motor to do a refresh. I'm just here trying to get some further input into possible issues I could be looking at. This is my first v-8 and also my first car that makes decent power, so I've never had to dive into anything like this before.
Appreciate any input!
Appreciate any input!
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I also agree, I just wish I would of seen the oil they drained and what amount of flakes were in it.If there were flakes in the oil I surely wouldn't be putting it on a dyno. That is a good way to really hit your wallet and have a catastrophic failure!
Shiny stuff in a catch can is not good at all.
Did you see the plugs that were taken out?
At this point, my first impression is that the first shop maybe didn't know what they were doing?
The glitter in the oil should be checked out by the new shop; they could pull the oil cooler, valve covers, maybe even drop the pan... but the presence or absence of glitter needs to be investigated before the dyno.
At this point, my first impression is that the first shop maybe didn't know what they were doing?
The glitter in the oil should be checked out by the new shop; they could pull the oil cooler, valve covers, maybe even drop the pan... but the presence or absence of glitter needs to be investigated before the dyno.
I did not see the plugs that were taken out. I think this weekend I may lightly run the car and drain the oil to see if I catch and glitter or metal. I prolly will end up cutting open the filter also. I agree tho I would like to find out the source of the glitter.Did you see the plugs that were taken out?
At this point, my first impression is that the first shop maybe didn't know what they were doing?
The glitter in the oil should be checked out by the new shop; they could pull the oil cooler, valve covers, maybe even drop the pan... but the presence or absence of glitter needs to be inverstigated before the dyno.
A blackstone oil analysis might be a good idea.
I just pulled my engine and broke it down for a similar issue. I had a weird misfire/vibration I was chasing. My number 8 intake runner was coated in oil and I had some metal in the engine oil I drained out. The metal in the oil was coming from my cam bearings. My misfire was coming from a cracked no8 piston. You may want to remove the heads at this point and just look.
Aside from the glitter, the misfires all on 1 bank point to a couple things for me.
1. The underhood fuse box may not be making good contact with the base. The fuse box is a 2 piece design where the base has all the wires connected to it and the fuse box sits on top. The 2 pieces are held together by 2 bolts on the top of the fuse box. SLOWLY HAND tighten them so the box makes good contact with the base. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. I had a bad misfire issue years ago and they too were also all on 1 bank. While investigating, I put my hand on the fuse box as support to check other things. Upon placing it there, the idle changed significantly better, I noticed that the fused box rocked a little and used the 2 bolts to tighten. Of course I overtightened them but it still held and hasn't been an issue since (over 5 years ago).
2. Check the wiring harness on that bank. Both the coils and injectors are on the harness and you can disconnect them near the back of the head. I'd look to make sure the connecters are seated properly.
1. The underhood fuse box may not be making good contact with the base. The fuse box is a 2 piece design where the base has all the wires connected to it and the fuse box sits on top. The 2 pieces are held together by 2 bolts on the top of the fuse box. SLOWLY HAND tighten them so the box makes good contact with the base. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. I had a bad misfire issue years ago and they too were also all on 1 bank. While investigating, I put my hand on the fuse box as support to check other things. Upon placing it there, the idle changed significantly better, I noticed that the fused box rocked a little and used the 2 bolts to tighten. Of course I overtightened them but it still held and hasn't been an issue since (over 5 years ago).
2. Check the wiring harness on that bank. Both the coils and injectors are on the harness and you can disconnect them near the back of the head. I'd look to make sure the connecters are seated properly.
I needed to dismember the coil/injector harnesses in order to support remote-mounting the coils.
The very first thing I discovered was that the factory harnesses had been ruined by being tucked into the high heat, no air flow crevice under the fuel rail, squeezed between the blower and the valve cover. They had been damaged by their life in this spot. The insulation of the individual wires had all melted together, thoroughly destroying the harness and threatening to short the various circuits together. One quick indicator of this damage is evident when you see that the harness (after removal) is stiff as a board.
While I did not have misfires because of this, it was surprised I didn’t and it would be first on my list to look at these harnesses in the event on a misfire.
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The very first thing I discovered was that the factory harnesses had been ruined by being tucked into the high heat, no air flow crevice under the fuel rail, squeezed between the blower and the valve cover. They had been damaged by their life in this spot. The insulation of the individual wires had all melted together, thoroughly destroying the harness and threatening to short the various circuits together. One quick indicator of this damage is evident when you see that the harness (after removal) is stiff as a board.
While I did not have misfires because of this, it was surprised I didn’t and it would be first on my list to look at these harnesses in the event on a misfire.
Appreciate the input! I’ll look into the fuse box issue later today. I did wiggle the plugs on the injectors/coils and didn’t seem to change anything. I wish there was away to watch for misfires on this scannerAside from the glitter, the misfires all on 1 bank point to a couple things for me.
1. The underhood fuse box may not be making good contact with the base. The fuse box is a 2 piece design where the base has all the wires connected to it and the fuse box sits on top. The 2 pieces are held together by 2 bolts on the top of the fuse box. SLOWLY HAND tighten them so the box makes good contact with the base. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. I had a bad misfire issue years ago and they too were also all on 1 bank. While investigating, I put my hand on the fuse box as support to check other things. Upon placing it there, the idle changed significantly better, I noticed that the fused box rocked a little and used the 2 bolts to tighten. Of course I overtightened them but it still held and hasn't been an issue since (over 5 years ago).
2. Check the wiring harness on that bank. Both the coils and injectors are on the harness and you can disconnect them near the back of the head. I'd look to make sure the connecters are seated properly.
Being an electrician for 16 years my first thought before reading your whole response was I bet they are one solid chunk of wire 😂. I think I know what my next project over the next few days is going be.I needed to dismember the coil/injector harnesses in order to support remote-mounting the coils.
The very first thing I discovered was that the factory harnesses had been ruined by being tucked into the high heat, no air flow crevice under the fuel rail, squeezed between the blower and the valve cover. They had been damaged by their life in this spot. The insulation of the individual wires had all melted together, thoroughly destroying the harness and threatening to short the various circuits together. One quick indicator of this damage is evident when you see that the harness (after removal) is stiff as a board.
While I did not have misfires because of this, it was surprised I didn’t and it would be first on my list to look at these harnesses in the event on a misfire.
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I had to buy new harnesses to dismember, which was quite easy with non-integrated insulation.Appreciate the input! I’ll look into the fuse box issue later today. I did wiggle the plugs on the injectors/coils and didn’t seem to change anything. I wish there was away to watch for misfires on this scanner
Being an electrician for 16 years my first thought before reading your whole response was I bet they are one solid chunk of wire 😂. I think I know what my next project over the next few days is going be.
Note that the LSA harnesses are specific to the LSA only.
well changed the oil. The first pic is oil out of the filter. Took the filter apart and found no chunks. The second picture is from the oil pan, drained right through this filter and caught a few tiny pieces of metal. Took a sample to send off to blackstone.
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2.8 MB Views: 9
I chased mine last summer. Did plugs, wires, injectors, moved coils, replaced coils, check resistance, checked harnesses, moved plugs, moved injectors, changed sensors, checked FP, etc. I'm 99% confident mine, like most LS....lifters. Mine only does it at idle and under cruising load (sometimes). I changed oil and added a bottle of Rislone. I bought the car used, so I don't know the details of it, but after about 1000miles it became much less pronounced. My dad ran a GM service department for 20yrs, I can't tell you the number of cars he told people add a bottle of Rislone to. A year later, mine is almost gone, but ultimately, if I don't keep using Rislone at oil changes, it will need lifters.
I owned a Tahoe (2008) that had 320k on it, if I didn't use a bottle of Rislone during the oil change, I'd get a lift misfire after about 2k miles. With Rislone I could get to about 5k before I'd pickup a misfire. The misfire on that truck was so pronounced, that it would pickup the misfire through the wheel speed sensors, causing it to throw all sorts of vehicle control lights, talk about trouble shooting nightmares.
I owned a Tahoe (2008) that had 320k on it, if I didn't use a bottle of Rislone during the oil change, I'd get a lift misfire after about 2k miles. With Rislone I could get to about 5k before I'd pickup a misfire. The misfire on that truck was so pronounced, that it would pickup the misfire through the wheel speed sensors, causing it to throw all sorts of vehicle control lights, talk about trouble shooting nightmares.
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