Alright - so now that the Upper Assembly is in, we again will leave the upper ball joint nut just flush with the end of the bolt so that the joint is loose. We also do NOT want to bolt in the lower shock assembly bolts or the speed sensor, obviously.
First, we need to break the lower ball joint. You may use a fork or other tool, but I found that backing the nut down flush with the ball joint stud - along with a big fucking hammer - was plenty to pop the ball joint free.
Again, don't remove the nut YET. Let's make sure we can get those @#$%&ing LCA bushing bolts free! The "big" bushing actually uses a smaller diameter bolt and you'll need a 21mm socket for your breaker bar (and either a crescent wrench or preferably a 21mm open-ended wrench). Similarly, the "little" bushing uses a larger bolt and 15/16" socket.
I found that sitting in front of the knuckle / brake assembly and then pulling (or kicking with my leg on the opposite side) made it relatively easy to break both free.
With the bushing bolts removed, it is very straight forward in removing the LCA without any need to remove the swaybar, end links or tie rods from the knuckle.
Now's a good time to either press out your shot OEM bushings, or make sure your replacement is correct. Reassemble your new bushings.
Next, install the lower ball joint and thread the nut first, but don't tighten it down. Then, using the ball joint to help support the LCA, you can line up the bushings and reinstall both bushing bolts from under the car. If you're using Creative Steel bushings - oh wait, they're the only game in town for these right now - you'll want to make sure both zerk fittings are facing to the REAR of the car.
Once the Lower Control Arm is in place, you need to reinstall the two 13mm lower shock bolts BEFORE tightening down the lower ball joint.
Check your torque specs! The lower shock bolts are easily sheared,
and you will have to replace the entire LCA if you break one - because they're almost impossible to get out without destroying the LCA in the process.
Now, reinstall the speed sensor bracket and go back over your work and re-torque ALL fasteners for the upper and lower control arms (or make sure they're reallyfuckingtight if applicable). Please reference the torque specifications at the top of this thread. No warranty is expressed or implied, my shop doesn't carry any liability insurance so you're fucked, etc.
All finished up and ready for an alignment:
(yes, I snapped the ride-height sensor back on...)