That 236 ft-lb LCA bolt is what cause me to take my car in 4 times to the same place for an alignment. They'd dial it in and as soon as I took one hard turn the damn thing would slide in the pocket and jack the hell out of it. You can't get an impact on it so most shops just hand tighten with a wrench or socket. They don't get close to 236 ft-lbs. I slapped a 3 foot breaker bar on mine and that thing hasn't moved a millimeter since then. Maybe I should open an alignment shop so things get done right.
09-15 CTS V Front Suspension torque values and installation - reference
14
Since I am going through my front suspension over the next few days, I wanted to post up the official 2013 GM Service Manual instructions. There are a few alternate sections referenced in these instructions - so if someone has a need for them feel free to send me a PM. I might get back to you... eventually. 
Torque Values: NOTE AWD vs RWD on some specifications
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Shock / Spring and Upper A-Arm:
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Lower Control Arms:
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Anti-swaybar / stabilizer bar and links (RWD only):
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Steering Knuckle (RWD only):
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Front Wheel Bearing and Hub (RWD only):
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Wheel Stud Replacement:
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Torque Values: NOTE AWD vs RWD on some specifications
Shock / Spring and Upper A-Arm:
Lower Control Arms:
Anti-swaybar / stabilizer bar and links (RWD only):
Steering Knuckle (RWD only):
Front Wheel Bearing and Hub (RWD only):
Wheel Stud Replacement:
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
9
So I swapped upper and lower control arm bushings today. Might as well turn this into a DIY thread!
I have already removed the bushings on my replacement UCA and LCA cores to make the project more expedient (
click here for link; and getting one side apart and back together took me about 5 hours taking my time.
Suggestions:
* You do not need a ball joint separator. I used a big hammer (see below)
* You will need an assortment of hand tools, including 1/2" breaker bars and sockets, and either a large adjustable crescent wrench or, preferably, wrenches that go up to at least 21mm and/or 15/16 (~24mm).
* You do not need to remove the sway bar, end links or tie rod ends. Start by removing the UCA / bucket / spring assembly and replace it, then use the UCA-to-knuckle joint to hold the knuckle while you remove and install the LCA.
First up - and in my humble opinion - you'll want to remove and reinstall the Upper Control Arm and spring assembly first.
To do that, you need to remove the vehicle speed sensor and tuck it up out of the way. Also you'll need to pop off the ride height sensor linkage with a flat screw.
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Make sure you pop the ride height sensor off with a screwdriver or similar:
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Next, loosen the UCA ball joint bolt that holds the knuckle in place.
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We don't want to remove it YET because this gives you JUST enough room to remove the two bolts that hold the bottom of the shock to the Lower Control Arm.
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Once the shock/spring assembly is loose, remove the upper ball joint completely. You'll have to support the knuckle while doing this to avoid slamming it, but once the upper ball joint is free the knuckle and brake assembly will hang down out of the way:
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Now we're getting somewhere. Time to remove the UCA and spring assembly - remember to leave one bolt on the top in by a few threads until you're ready to catch the whole thing!
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Now's a good time to press out the old bushings and verify you have the right parts - and that they are orientated the right way! I bought spare suspension pieces to make this swap easier, just in case! Also remember to lube up the bushings prior to installation, and remember that the zerk fittings (if applicable) have to point towards the center, resting inbetween coil springs. They will not fit otherwise.
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I am using the Creative Steel poly set and torqued the UCA bushing bolts to 70 ft-lbs - a value I felt was reasonable for the bolt diameter. HOWEVER there are no published torque specifications since the UCA / top hat are only sold as a pre-assembled piece! So be judicious with your wrenches here!
![]()
Reassembly is pretty straight forward - reference the torque specifications above for the UCA assembly-to-chassis bolts. I know you want to get that ball joint nut on there tight... but again, leave it loose - we still have to get to the lower control arm! And it should be obvious... but don't reinstall the lower shock bolts or the speed sensor either!
![]()
- to be continued -
I have already removed the bushings on my replacement UCA and LCA cores to make the project more expedient (
click here for link; and getting one side apart and back together took me about 5 hours taking my time.
Suggestions:
* You do not need a ball joint separator. I used a big hammer (see below)
* You will need an assortment of hand tools, including 1/2" breaker bars and sockets, and either a large adjustable crescent wrench or, preferably, wrenches that go up to at least 21mm and/or 15/16 (~24mm).
* You do not need to remove the sway bar, end links or tie rod ends. Start by removing the UCA / bucket / spring assembly and replace it, then use the UCA-to-knuckle joint to hold the knuckle while you remove and install the LCA.
First up - and in my humble opinion - you'll want to remove and reinstall the Upper Control Arm and spring assembly first.
To do that, you need to remove the vehicle speed sensor and tuck it up out of the way. Also you'll need to pop off the ride height sensor linkage with a flat screw.
Make sure you pop the ride height sensor off with a screwdriver or similar:
Next, loosen the UCA ball joint bolt that holds the knuckle in place.
We don't want to remove it YET because this gives you JUST enough room to remove the two bolts that hold the bottom of the shock to the Lower Control Arm.
Once the shock/spring assembly is loose, remove the upper ball joint completely. You'll have to support the knuckle while doing this to avoid slamming it, but once the upper ball joint is free the knuckle and brake assembly will hang down out of the way:
Now we're getting somewhere. Time to remove the UCA and spring assembly - remember to leave one bolt on the top in by a few threads until you're ready to catch the whole thing!
Now's a good time to press out the old bushings and verify you have the right parts - and that they are orientated the right way! I bought spare suspension pieces to make this swap easier, just in case! Also remember to lube up the bushings prior to installation, and remember that the zerk fittings (if applicable) have to point towards the center, resting inbetween coil springs. They will not fit otherwise.
I am using the Creative Steel poly set and torqued the UCA bushing bolts to 70 ft-lbs - a value I felt was reasonable for the bolt diameter. HOWEVER there are no published torque specifications since the UCA / top hat are only sold as a pre-assembled piece! So be judicious with your wrenches here!
Reassembly is pretty straight forward - reference the torque specifications above for the UCA assembly-to-chassis bolts. I know you want to get that ball joint nut on there tight... but again, leave it loose - we still have to get to the lower control arm! And it should be obvious... but don't reinstall the lower shock bolts or the speed sensor either!
- to be continued -
6
Alright - so now that the Upper Assembly is in, we again will leave the upper ball joint nut just flush with the end of the bolt so that the joint is loose. We also do NOT want to bolt in the lower shock assembly bolts or the speed sensor, obviously.
First, we need to break the lower ball joint. You may use a fork or other tool, but I found that backing the nut down flush with the ball joint stud - along with a big fucking hammer - was plenty to pop the ball joint free.
![]()
Again, don't remove the nut YET. Let's make sure we can get those @#$%&ing LCA bushing bolts free! The "big" bushing actually uses a smaller diameter bolt and you'll need a 21mm socket for your breaker bar (and either a crescent wrench or preferably a 21mm open-ended wrench). Similarly, the "little" bushing uses a larger bolt and 15/16" socket.
![]()
I found that sitting in front of the knuckle / brake assembly and then pulling (or kicking with my leg on the opposite side) made it relatively easy to break both free.
With the bushing bolts removed, it is very straight forward in removing the LCA without any need to remove the swaybar, end links or tie rods from the knuckle.
![]()
Now's a good time to either press out your shot OEM bushings, or make sure your replacement is correct. Reassemble your new bushings.
![]()
Next, install the lower ball joint and thread the nut first, but don't tighten it down. Then, using the ball joint to help support the LCA, you can line up the bushings and reinstall both bushing bolts from under the car. If you're using Creative Steel bushings - oh wait, they're the only game in town for these right now - you'll want to make sure both zerk fittings are facing to the REAR of the car.
![]()
Once the Lower Control Arm is in place, you need to reinstall the two 13mm lower shock bolts BEFORE tightening down the lower ball joint. Check your torque specs! The lower shock bolts are easily sheared, and you will have to replace the entire LCA if you break one - because they're almost impossible to get out without destroying the LCA in the process.
Now, reinstall the speed sensor bracket and go back over your work and re-torque ALL fasteners for the upper and lower control arms (or make sure they're reallyfuckingtight if applicable). Please reference the torque specifications at the top of this thread. No warranty is expressed or implied, my shop doesn't carry any liability insurance so you're fucked, etc.
All finished up and ready for an alignment:
![]()
(yes, I snapped the ride-height sensor back on...)
First, we need to break the lower ball joint. You may use a fork or other tool, but I found that backing the nut down flush with the ball joint stud - along with a big fucking hammer - was plenty to pop the ball joint free.
Again, don't remove the nut YET. Let's make sure we can get those @#$%&ing LCA bushing bolts free! The "big" bushing actually uses a smaller diameter bolt and you'll need a 21mm socket for your breaker bar (and either a crescent wrench or preferably a 21mm open-ended wrench). Similarly, the "little" bushing uses a larger bolt and 15/16" socket.
I found that sitting in front of the knuckle / brake assembly and then pulling (or kicking with my leg on the opposite side) made it relatively easy to break both free.
With the bushing bolts removed, it is very straight forward in removing the LCA without any need to remove the swaybar, end links or tie rods from the knuckle.
Now's a good time to either press out your shot OEM bushings, or make sure your replacement is correct. Reassemble your new bushings.
Next, install the lower ball joint and thread the nut first, but don't tighten it down. Then, using the ball joint to help support the LCA, you can line up the bushings and reinstall both bushing bolts from under the car. If you're using Creative Steel bushings - oh wait, they're the only game in town for these right now - you'll want to make sure both zerk fittings are facing to the REAR of the car.
Once the Lower Control Arm is in place, you need to reinstall the two 13mm lower shock bolts BEFORE tightening down the lower ball joint. Check your torque specs! The lower shock bolts are easily sheared, and you will have to replace the entire LCA if you break one - because they're almost impossible to get out without destroying the LCA in the process.
Now, reinstall the speed sensor bracket and go back over your work and re-torque ALL fasteners for the upper and lower control arms (or make sure they're reallyfuckingtight if applicable). Please reference the torque specifications at the top of this thread. No warranty is expressed or implied, my shop doesn't carry any liability insurance so you're fucked, etc.
All finished up and ready for an alignment:
(yes, I snapped the ride-height sensor back on...)
I need to start posting my paypal account for donations! Thanks for the kind words nonetheless!
I used the grease supplied with the bushing set by Creative Steel. It's not a lot, but it's enough to get the contact points and inserts pretty well lubed up. I need to buy a new grease gun and get the "marine" grade grease. BUT, I might add those details, along with a "review" of the Creative Steel product, into the third post.
ETA: I called creative steel and they tell me they are using Amsoil Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2 Heavy Duty, Commercial (Red) for their kits:
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Amsoil product # GLCCR
Thanks for the kind words nonetheless! I used the grease supplied with the bushing set by Creative Steel. It's not a lot, but it's enough to get the contact points and inserts pretty well lubed up. I need to buy a new grease gun and get the "marine" grade grease. BUT, I might add those details, along with a "review" of the Creative Steel product, into the third post.
ETA: I called creative steel and they tell me they are using Amsoil Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2 Heavy Duty, Commercial (Red) for their kits:
Amsoil product # GLCCR
A few additions, if I may, sir:
First step should be popping off the ride height sensor rod on the UCA
All nuts/bolts are metric as far as I know, and I had great success using a thin-walled 18mm deep socket to get the spring hat nut out. As for the large LCA bolt, 24mm fits perfect (not 15/16). I was able to torque it down to 236 ft-lbs without stripping it.
Overall, great write-up. I'll be doing the LCA bushings next year when I do a bunch of other changes.
-suggestions from someone who has had the front suspension apart about 12 times
First step should be popping off the ride height sensor rod on the UCA
All nuts/bolts are metric as far as I know, and I had great success using a thin-walled 18mm deep socket to get the spring hat nut out. As for the large LCA bolt, 24mm fits perfect (not 15/16). I was able to torque it down to 236 ft-lbs without stripping it.
Overall, great write-up. I'll be doing the LCA bushings next year when I do a bunch of other changes.
-suggestions from someone who has had the front suspension apart about 12 times
I got the green grease from autozone. The bummer about it is it’s too thick for the design of the bushings to disburse it properly. It just squeezes out around the bolt head to washer/nut to washer. So grease the shit out of them at install to avoid any squeaking is my $0.02I need to start posting my paypal account for donations!
I used the grease supplied with the bushing set by Creative Steel. It's not a lot, but it's enough to get the contact points and inserts pretty well lubed up. I need to buy a new grease gun and get the "marine" grade grease. BUT, I might add those details, along with a "review" of the Creative Steel product, into the third post.
And no, I ain’t donating to you
This little one came today so I’m the one who needs donations
Thread hi jack much?
FYI: Use Amsoil Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2 Heavy Duty, Commercial (Red) for their kits:
![]()
Amsoil product # GLCCR
It's held up very well on my front suspension bushings.
Amsoil product # GLCCR
It's held up very well on my front suspension bushings.
Ultra Supreme, huh. Eventually they're going to run out of adjectives.FYI: I'm going to try this "aluminum-complex" tacky grease on the poly bushings. Purportedly holds up better than most lithium-based greases and should be poly-safe.
![]()
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/milkygrease.htm
Random84, thank you for the write up... I love the way you did it (pics w/ comments and extra detailed)! Question...I want to change my front shocks, is a spring compressor needed? If so why and any recommendations would be helpful!Alright - so now that the Upper Assembly is in, we again will leave the upper ball joint nut just flush with the end of the bolt so that the joint is loose. We also do NOT want to bolt in the lower shock assembly bolts or the speed sensor, obviously.
First, we need to break the lower ball joint. You may use a fork or other tool, but I found that backing the nut down flush with the ball joint stud - along with a big fucking hammer - was plenty to pop the ball joint free.
![]()
Again, don't remove the nut YET. Let's make sure we can get those @#$%&ing LCA bushing bolts free! The "big" bushing actually uses a smaller diameter bolt and you'll need a 21mm socket for your breaker bar (and either a crescent wrench or preferably a 21mm open-ended wrench). Similarly, the "little" bushing uses a larger bolt and 15/16" socket.
![]()
I found that sitting in front of the knuckle / brake assembly and then pulling (or kicking with my leg on the opposite side) made it relatively easy to break both free.
With the bushing bolts removed, it is very straight forward in removing the LCA without any need to remove the swaybar, end links or tie rods from the knuckle.
![]()
Now's a good time to either press out your shot OEM bushings, or make sure your replacement is correct. Reassemble your new bushings.
![]()
Next, install the lower ball joint and thread the nut first, but don't tighten it down. Then, using the ball joint to help support the LCA, you can line up the bushings and reinstall both bushing bolts from under the car. If you're using Creative Steel bushings - oh wait, they're the only game in town for these right now - you'll want to make sure both zerk fittings are facing to the REAR of the car.
![]()
Once the Lower Control Arm is in place, you need to reinstall the two 13mm lower shock bolts BEFORE tightening down the lower ball joint. Check your torque specs! The lower shock bolts are easily sheared, and you will have to replace the entire LCA if you break one - because they're almost impossible to get out without destroying the LCA in the process.
Now, reinstall the speed sensor bracket and go back over your work and re-torque ALL fasteners for the upper and lower control arms (or make sure they're reallyfuckingtight if applicable). Please reference the torque specifications at the top of this thread. No warranty is expressed or implied, my shop doesn't carry any liability insurance so you're fucked, etc.
All finished up and ready for an alignment:
![]()
(yes, I snapped the ride-height sensor back on...)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
