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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Swap is underway.
This weekend was rather productive.
The factory Vette water pump does not have the correct belt tensioner bosses & the water outlet is also relocated.
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A few interesting items to consider....
After trying to swap thermostat housings, I found that they are not just clocked differently, but the LSA thermostat is larger in diameter as well as longer. The old thermostat would not touch the bottom where the heater core ports are so I kept the LSA style & modified the lower hose accordingly.
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Also, the factory harmonic dampener is not keyed, nor does the LS3 crank have a keyway location.
I drilled & put 2 dowels in the crank to locate the dampener.

Unfortunately, the dampener is very close to the radiator support,
so I had to use an angle drill & short bit to drill the crank.
The 10% OD Powerbond is now in place
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I am using an LSX Concepts race drive which is a very nice piece.
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It barely clears the cooling fans.

Supercharger is mocked up in place & it fortunately clears the hood by a small margin.
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Next is to fit the air intake & get everything bolted down.

I still need fuel rails & a lot of AC / intercooler piping to work out, but at least everything seems to fit without any major surgery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Now is when I could use some opinions.

Based on the supercharger color, what would you recommend?

Currently I think there is too much silver.
I have silver coil covers, but the intake was all black & provided a nice contrast.
I know it doesn't make it any faster, but it needs to look good.

Factory black lid, with silver lower
Factory black lid, with blue lower (matched to the truck)
Blue lid, with silver base
Blue lid, with black base
Other suggestions?
 

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@Lonnies Performance

This shows why quality swaps are so rare. Your attention to detail, like machining your spindles and wiring harness, is great.

Sometimes I think about doing a resto with an LSA in a Chevelle. But seeing this I go "nope".
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I just ordered the bracket for the cable throttle body today & the interchiller is on order from last week.

Hoping to find a Aeroforce gauge in the older PT version to work with my old school PCM...
Does anyone have experience with the one using a blue background?
Is it easy to see in that color?


I was planning to do a speed density tune, but will likely keep the MAF so I can use it for progressive control of the alcohol injection.

Also, what is everyone's experience with the Radium or LSX Innovations fuel rails?
I already have a -8 supply & -6 return lines to the rails so I want to utilize flow through rails with a boost referenced fuel system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Thanks Bluecoupe,
It's taken me a while to actually build one.
I wanted to do a V8 swap S10 in the late 80's since they were so light.

Then I got into the mid 90's LT1 engines & got sidetracked with my Camaro for a few years.

I had a 91 S10 Blazer 4x4 that I drove to work... A decent vehicle, great in the snow, but a total pig power wise.

Then I built a 90 S10 Blazer 4x4 for someone else with a TBI 350 that I really liked.
Still not fast by any means, but a unique driver.

When the Xtremes were first out, I thought... it's a neat truck, except it needs some HP.
...even the Dodge Dakota had an optional V8 at the time.

Once I started messing with LS engines, & realized the stock heads flowed almost as well as a good set of SBC Air Flow Research heads, I knew what needed done.

I kept an eye out for one over the years, it just took a while to get the one I liked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Progress has been somewhat slow... ended up ith the Flu last weekend so I got nothing done.

I made a few trips to NAPA to find a new upper radiator hose.
Trying to eye up hoses to get the proper section out of one is not an exact science.
The first 2 didn't work, so I grabbed another 2 & got lucky..
1 more thing off the list.

I still have to cut back the heater hoses into the firewall as they hit the supercharger cover at the rear corner.

I got a bracket for the throttle cable & promptly found out the cruise control cable hit the pulley at WOT.
.I have to keep all the creature comforts....

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Who says you can't use a 16" lathe to turn a 1/4" part?
My tools are bigger than the parts I'm trying to make so I built a collar to mount a small 6" chuck in the 16" chuck.
Worked out pretty well even with the way oversized tooling.

I cut down the large pin to fit.
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The finished part.
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Now it fits with the proper clearance, so I started on the air intake.

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I still have to mount the MAF mounting plate in the tube.
I will be using it to control a progressive Alky Control kit.

Has anyone used the Gates RPM series belts? They are designed for forced induction applications, so I thought I would give one a shot.
I looked at the green HD series, also but damn are they ugly.
 

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Meh - I've tried the "gator belts" on a few Procharger setups. They seemed to slip and leave debris.

IMO the green belts worked better with the correct pulley setup.
 
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Good video... I never saw that one.

I've been a ProCharger dealer for 20 years now & the standard belts seemed to work OK. Their chargers typically have high internal step-up ratios & larger driven pulley sizes to take advantage of more belt surface area. Their smallest pulley sizes are now typically in the 3.2-3.4" range. It wasn't since the old oil fed series of chargers from 15+ years ago when I ran a 2.55" upper with a 12 rib belt & had any traction issues in anything but extreme applications.

I remember splitting the balancer hub on a 5.0 Mustang due to the massive belt tension & high offset on the 12 rib belt. Makes junk out the radiator, fans, water pump, pulleys, timing cover etc. in a hurry. Not to mention 2 gallons of antifreeze under the slicks at over 100mph.

Since the Eaton style uses smaller upper pulleys, they can definitely use the added traction of a better belt.

I never used the RPM Belt before & the price is definitely more than the Green HD series.

This is the latest RPM blurb from the Gates website:
Racing, Performance, Muscle. The only belt in the industry specifically designed for high-output and forced induction engines.
Specially-engineered to deliver maximum boost and performance, these belts feature the most advanced technology.

  • Advanced, exact-fit and precision-ground belt profile.
  • Two layers of adhesion gum for maximum strength and durability.
  • High-modulus, low stretch aramid cord.
  • Nylon-fiber reinforced undercord.
  • Strict OEM dimensional specifications.
 

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Check out Motion Raceworks for some of those miscellaneous build items.
Also, I would like to check out your shop someday since you are not too far away. I could bring my V when it is finished.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Check out Motion Raceworks for some of those miscellaneous build items.
Also, I would like to check out your shop someday since you are not too far away. I could bring my V when it is finished.
Sure... you are welcome to stop by.

As for Motion Raceworks,..
I just bought their timing pointer so I can verify my ignition timing & I am also using their throttle cable bracket.
They make some nice stuff.

I'm currently in power steering hell....
I have to relocate the fluid reservoir as it was where the throttle body now is.
I'm quickly running out of space. I think I will put it between the alternator & master cylinder.

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The intercooler reservoir is also an issue.
I had a great idea to mount the reservoir in the battery location & they make nice aluminum ones for a 99 up Mustang.
Unfortunately, they are too long to fit in the S10 location & will hit the AC compressor.
Shortening an aluminum tank & welding/rebuilding it does not sound like fun.

Looks like I can fit a 6" dia by 12" lg. spun aluminum tank in there instead.
Unfortunately it only holds 1.2 gal.

I originally wanted to put it at the rear of the truck, but there is literally no room to get the lines to the front unless running them up over the trans & engine around all that heat.
The headers take up all the room between the engine & frame & there is no room between the inner fender & firewall to route anything.
I barely got a -8 fuel line through there on the Dr. side.

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There is about 3/16" between the headers & frame & about 1/2" to the floor heat shields at the fire wall.


Looks like the Chiller & pump will fit between the frame rails on a plate between the frame rails.
They thoughtfully left me 4 pre-threaded holes in the frame also....

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Amid all the work, I see something dripping under the truck... I'm praying it is not my new power steering lines.
Having all the lines disconnected, there was oil everywhere & I was finding a few drips anyway.

It is brake fluid... so I now have something else to fix.

Unfortunately, it is the ABS unit on the inner fender, & the fluid is now eating the paint off of my frame.
Fortunately, it is in the same place the tire scuffed it, so I call that a minor setback.

As for progress, I did some fuel system upgrades.
Normally, I would build one of my dual pump setups for in the tank, but the trucks have a lousy design with a long tank front to rear, which can cause some starvation issues at low fuel levels, since the pump is located in the middle. Previously I put a 255 Walbro in the tank so I know it will max out around 550 wheel HP.

I proceeded to install an external pump & tie it in to the existing lines.
As Murrphy's law prevails, there is no room for everything without redoing more than I want to .

Old configuration
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After some relocation.
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Luckily the lines under the hood were already connected to aftermarket LS3 rails so they lined right up with my new LSA billet fuel rails with no modifications. I added a set of FIC 1000cc injectors & reset my fuel pressure to a boost referenced 43psi.

I loaded all of the new injector tables into my old tune & entered the MAP sensor values to match the LSA sensor.
Surprisingly it fired right up & was only showing 5% correction at idle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Weather was very nice considering the season.... mid to upper 50's for New Years Eve in PA is remarkable.

I took advantage of the opportunity & did some drivability tuning since the weather won't likely cooperate again for a few more months.

I do not have any intercooler plumbing in place, so I wasn't planning anything crazy.
The tune was relatively close with the exception of being lean in the 1500-2200 range at light throttle.
I'm running speed density & I put about 40 miles on it tweaking things.
The fuel trims are now within approximately 5% across the board.

I have the base timing pulled out to 12 deg at WOT with a lot of reduction based on IAT.
Being that was cool out I gave it a short WOT stab to make sure it gets boost & there is ample fuel.
The wideband showed 11.2-11.4 & timing was only around 7-8 total.
It is showing about 9psi (160-165kpa) boost so things look within reason, but IAT shoots up quickly.
I can't wait to see what is capable of with the proper cooling.
 
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