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Hey guys,

Working on a project V2 I recently got and came out to a dead battery the other day. I had been working on the car on and off so the battery had previously been disconnected but was recently connected, I figured I left a light on. Charged the battery and the same thing happened. Put my meter on it and the car was drawing 4.5 amps with the car off and locked!
Traced this to the “display” circuit as when I remove that fuse in the engine bay fuse box, the draw goes away.

Removing this means my gauges or DIC don’t work but everything else in the car seems to. In My research, I can’t find what other items are on that circuit. Also, what could possibly draw those kind of amps in the gauge cluster?

Any direction would be great! The only thing that came up on the forum was a bad memory seat module but mine works.
 

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How much does the circuit draw when the car is running? 4.5A does seem like a lot for a gauge cluster, though. Kind of weird. Many of the modules on the car are self-controlled when it comes to power. Like the radio that stays on when you turn off the key. It's not something else in the car that ultimately shuts the radio off, it's the radio itself. That's in part why there's a small parasitic draw when the car is off, the circuits that let stuff turn on again need some tiny amount of juice to work. There's got to be something else that's drawing the juice, not the cluster. You said the seat was on that circuit but the seat was working. Are you sure all the functions work? A stalled motor could easily draw 4.5A. Reach under the seat and pull the connector off the control box and see if your 4.5A goes away...
 

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Check the Delay accessory Buss. There is a relay that is supposed to turn off when the drivers door is opened. If the relay is stuck closed it will cause god problem you describe.
 

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How much does the circuit draw when the car is running? 4.5A does seem like a lot for a gauge cluster, though. Kind of weird. Many of the modules on the car are self-controlled when it comes to power. Like the radio that stays on when you turn off the key. It's not something else in the car that ultimately shuts the radio off, it's the radio itself. That's in part why there's a small parasitic draw when the car is off, the circuits that let stuff turn on again need some tiny amount of juice to work. There's got to be something else that's drawing the juice, not the cluster. You said the seat was on that circuit but the seat was working. Are you sure all the functions work? A stalled motor could easily draw 4.5A. Reach under the seat and pull the connector off the control box and see if your 4.5A goes away...
rocket, thanks for the heads up. I bought new multi meter with a dc clamp so I think my readings were off originally. Now, everything seems to be tied to nav, display, and all radio fuses. With those removed, I am at around .15 amps, is that high?. Still seems a bit high but I know with all the modules it might be right. With those in, it pulls around 3.0 amps now, so still not right. I did notice that the radio did shut off when I locked it after a bit however it turned itself back on (saw it on the meter, no noise or lights on the radio) a while later while I was Checking other fuses. Pulling the typical m
Check the Delay accessory Buss. There is a relay that is supposed to turn off when the drivers door is opened. If the relay is stuck closed it will cause god problem you describe.
where is this located? I pulled all fuses and relays to start drag but didn’t see this one.

thanks for the help guys!
 

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200mA is the number that sticks in my head for GM vehicles. So 150mA would be about right. I think it you wait 10 or 15 minutes it will drop again to an even lower level.
 

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200mA is the number that sticks in my head for GM vehicles. So 150mA would be about right. I think it you wait 10 or 15 minutes it will drop again to an even lower level.
thanks, I am keeping the battery hooked up over night and I am going to measure it in the morning.
 

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If someone has the service manual, I know there are a couple of pages about troubleshooting key-off current draw and all these times and numbers are detailed there. I don't have it for the Caddy, but I did for my Corvette and Sierra which is why I know. I had a problem with the Sierra not powering down. Don't remember what it was I had to fix, though.
 

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This may sound odd, but do you have a key programmed to memory 3? When trying to troubleshoot my power off current draw I found a service procedure that listed three programmed keys as one of the precursors to a possible current drain. Something related to the BCM waking up modules unnecessarily from a software bug. However, the fob programming issue was noted when the seat modules were part of the power drain.
 
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