replacing hard lines...again
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Thread: replacing hard lines...again

  1. #1
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    replacing hard lines...again

    I need to get rid of the hard lines in my car.
    I have an underhood tank, weapon x HX, and lid with 12an fittings.
    Can 3/4" silicone hose clamp over the AN fittings?


    2014 Phantom Grey sedan lots of mods

  2. #2
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    I dont like the other hose or fittings on my car anyhow, think ill order the same fittings and hose I had on my 11 V
    I just thought maybe the silicone hose would take bends real easy







    2014 Phantom Grey sedan lots of mods

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    Quote Originally Posted by RobF300 View Post
    I dont like the other hose or fittings on my car anyhow, think ill order the same fittings and hose I had on my 11 V
    I just thought maybe the silicone hose would take bends real easy

    Where did you get those lines and fittings?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Got Bearings? View Post
    Where did you get those lines and fittings?
    British American transfer . Think I’ll try to call them tomorow and order it all up
    Preferred routing still top of lid-tank-pump-HX-bottom of lid?


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  6. #5
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    I have top of lid->tank->hx>pump>bottom of lid.
    Isn't this the more typical(stock) routing?
    2011 CTS-V
    Airaid, 2.45 Griptec, ARH 1-7/8 LT w/cats, ID1050x, DSX Flexfuel, ZL1 lid, LPE HX w/fans, Varimax, Underhood tank, Mamo ported TB, MM wild catch can, Pat G tune.

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  7. #6
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    They make specific pushlock AN fittings meant for rubber/silicone hose, and clamps are not needed (or recommended), if that's what you're asking. That's what I run.
    2009 WDT 6MT CTS-V - BC Forged RZ10 20x9.5 +45, SW headers + stock mufflers, Airaid, Moroso OCC, DMS ZL1 lid, C&R HX, Varimax pump with full 3/4" lines, Ground Control coil overs - 14kgf/mm front, 16kgf/mm rear, CS shifter, CS rear toe arms, CS front UCA/LCA bushings, CS motor mounts, Whiteline rear subframe bushings, Voodoochikin/Kerbid driveshaft carrier

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    Quote Originally Posted by bmylez View Post
    They make specific pushlock AN fittings meant for rubber/silicone hose, and clamps are not needed (or recommended), if that's what you're asking. That's what I run.
    Lid isn’t the issue it’s the pump and HX, need to make sure whatever hose can clamp over a barb fitting


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  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobF300 View Post
    Can 3/4" silicone hose clamp over the AN fittings?
    Quote Originally Posted by RobF300 View Post
    Lid isn’t the issue it’s the pump and HX, need to make sure whatever hose can clamp over a barb fitting
    Ok, just that you said AN fittings in the original post, hence my confusion. I ran 3/4" silicone hose to my Varimax pump and C&R HX no issue, but I did have to fashion up my own 90* AN fitting because it was too sharp of a turn for just one of the HX connections.

    I bought a 90* 3/4 barb-to -12 AN male fitting + a -12 AN female to 3/4" barb straight fitting. I didn't want to use a harsh, right angled brass fitting because that hurts flow. Then I just put a 3" piece of hose on the HX fitting, then the AN combo fitting on the other end.
    2009 WDT 6MT CTS-V - BC Forged RZ10 20x9.5 +45, SW headers + stock mufflers, Airaid, Moroso OCC, DMS ZL1 lid, C&R HX, Varimax pump with full 3/4" lines, Ground Control coil overs - 14kgf/mm front, 16kgf/mm rear, CS shifter, CS rear toe arms, CS front UCA/LCA bushings, CS motor mounts, Whiteline rear subframe bushings, Voodoochikin/Kerbid driveshaft carrier

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    like everyone else its a mixture of fittings, an and barb.
    im wondering if a 90 degree heater hose with some length to it will make it from the bottom of the HX to the pump, i dont remember how far away it is.
    rest is gravy


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  11. #10
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    The most important part of designing a pumping system is the suction side of the pump. So In my opinion Tank > Pump is the only way to do it.

    Pumps are very good at creating pressure and pushing liquid, they are not good at sucking liquid. Bad suction design can cause cavitation and introduce air into the system.


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    2009 CTSV - 2.55 upper pulley, Airade CAI, 850 injectors, track attack HX, SS brake lines, R1 rotors, hawk yellow pads, kooks headers, high flow cats, corsa exhaust. 575 WHP, 7.4 @ 99 1/8th

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveM View Post
    The most important part of designing a pumping system is the suction side of the pump. So In my opinion Tank > Pump is the only way to do it.

    Pumps are very good at creating pressure and pushing liquid, they are not good at sucking liquid. Bad suction design can cause cavitation and introduce air into the system.


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    im doing it this way, but I seem to remember someone claiming some ridiculous IAT2's (like 3 over ambient during normal driving ) and saying it was from how they routed the lines.
    It was 20 something degrees this morning when I left my house and my IAT2s were still almost 40 and thats me driving really easy due to drag radials on the back. Need to change over to my all seasons.


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  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobF300 View Post
    It was 20 something degrees this morning when I left my house and my IAT2s were still almost 40 and thats me driving really easy due to drag radials on the back. Need to change over to my all seasons.
    Were the IAT2's 40* or 40 over ambient?
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGA2B View Post
    Were the IAT2's 40* or 40 over ambient?

    40 degrees, not 40 over.


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