How To: Mighty Mouse catch can
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Thread: How To: Mighty Mouse catch can

  1. #1
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    How To: Mighty Mouse catch can

    Hey guys, just wanted to do a quick “How To” on installing the Mighty Mouse Wild catch can and my overall thoughts. Just a disclaimer, Mighty Mouse Solutions is offering a 15-dollar refund for a review of the product. This by no means will sway my opinion of the product.


    Tools recommended:
    • 10mm deep socket
    • 10mm wrench (ratcheting works best for this install)
    • 15mm socket
    • Adjustable wrench (or correct size for your AN fittings)
    • Good scissors or ability to cut rubber tubing
    • Long flat head screw driver
    • Long needle nose pliers


    -Start off by removing your old pvc plastic hoses. This is the tube that attaches both valve covers and goes to the intake tube. Then there is a U bend plastic tube that connects the valley plate to the supercharger. This is where the long flat head screw driver becomes handy. To remove these hoses there is a tab that you have to push over and pull on the hose.
    -Once the tubes are removed, cap off the valve cover ports with the supplied caps.
    -Behind the supercharger on the driver side, there is a wire connector that is held onto the supercharger with two 10mm bolts. Remove these two bolts.
    -With the catch can in your hand, put the t-bolt clamp on in the center of the can. The clamp will fit between the site hole and the fittings.
    -Next slide the bracket on between the catch can and t-bolt clamp.
    -Orientate the can so that the AN fitting faces directly at the firewall. Snug the t-bolt clamp so everything stays together but not too tight as to where you cannot move the can inside the clamp. Make sure the bracket and clamp are as high as possible on the can.
    -Install the drain tube
    -Carefully slide the can behind the supercharger, feed the drain tube down alongside the trans. Line up the bracket with the wire harness bracket and the bolt holes and reinstall the two 10mm bolts, be patient as this is a bit of a P.I.T.A
    -Push the can downward and tighten the t-bolt clamp so that the can, can no longer move.
    -Install the provided filter
    -Take one of the 90* elbows and install it onto one end of the big hose.
    -Snake the hose in and attach it to the can. Just finger tight at this point. Route the rest of the hose over to the oil fill cap.
    -Remove old oil fill cap and install the provided oil fill cap adapter.
    -Install the other 90* elbow onto the hose and thread it onto the oil fill cap adapter. You can snug both sides up now
    -Take the 3/8 hose and install one end onto the can, route this hose over to the port on the supercharger that you disconnected earlier. Once you have your length figured out, cut the hose and attach it to the port. Make sure you push the hose on all the way over the bump.
    -Take the remaining hose and attach one end to the valley port and the other to your intake tube.
    -Jack your car up and slide underneath, take out one of your bottom bell housing bolts.
    -Slide the bolt through the drain tube hose clamp and screw the bell housing bolt back in.
    -Make sure the drain valve is closed
    -Lower the car and you are now done


    Tips, suggestions and my impression:
    -Put a little oil on the bigger hose before sliding the 90s on, makes it easier to get the hose all the way to its seat.
    -The 3/8 hose I was able to tuck it down between the fuel rail and the supercharger and was able to feed it all the way through in the space between the supercharger and valve cover, this made the install a bit cleaner.
    -Long reach needle nose pliers help a lot to push the 3/8 hose onto the nipples and to remove the U bend plastic hose.
    -The clearance between the can and oil pressure sensor is none existent. In fact, you end up pushing quite a bit on the sensor and that makes it a bit more difficult to line up the bolt holes.
    -I found it easier to remove the metal bracket from the wire harness plug, bolt it in place with the catch can bracket and then reinstall the wire harness plug onto the metal bracket.
    -The brushed finish on the can is very nice but gets marked up very easily. Not a big deal since you don't see the can anyways.
    -After install, test your windshield wipers, mine hit the filter so I had to push down on the filter a little.
    -The provided instructions are a little confusing because it says to install a cap onto the valley cover port, but later says to run a hose to it. Plus, the kit only comes with two caps.

    Overall, I think this is a great product and the install isn't too bad. The product was packaged very securely for shipping so nothing got marked up or broken while being shipped.

    I like how the can is tucked away and the factory engine covers still fit. I pulled my lid off and cleaned some of the oil up, in a couple weeks I will pull it up again and see if there is any oil in the same spots.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails How To: Mighty Mouse catch can-6.jpg   How To: Mighty Mouse catch can-8.jpg   How To: Mighty Mouse catch can-11.jpg   How To: Mighty Mouse catch can-10.jpg   How To: Mighty Mouse catch can-13.jpg  

    How To: Mighty Mouse catch can-14.jpg   How To: Mighty Mouse catch can-1.jpg   How To: Mighty Mouse catch can-2.jpg   How To: Mighty Mouse catch can-3.jpg   How To: Mighty Mouse catch can-4.jpg  

    Last edited by kliped; 04-08-2018 at 08:17 AM.
    TY2185, Florida-Vee, MYV and 2 others like this.

  2. #2
    MYV
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    Picture #1 shows how u routed your resv. lines, courious how is your iat2 numbers.

    I have the same lid and mines routed different and I still feel like a little air is still in there, after a few members gave me some help. Bleeding a hx isn't my expertise.. smh
    MY RESUME

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  3. #3
    MYV
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    About 25-30 above ambient with this setup.

    Sent from my SM-J727V using Tapatalk
    MY RESUME

    2.4 Pulley, ID 1000's, LS7tb, Air-Raid
    Ethanol Addiction, B&B Test Pipes, B&B Cat-back W/2nd cats, QTP Cutouts
    Varimax Pump, Dyno-Speed Racing Hx, KB Bap
    Hx Reservoir, Vitesse Throttle Controller
    Transmission Tune

    Dyno-Speed Racing & DBR Performance

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  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by MYV View Post
    Picture #1 shows how u routed your resv. lines, courious how is your iat2 numbers.

    I have the same lid and mines routed different and I still feel like a little air is still in there, after a few members gave me some help. Bleeding a hx isn't my expertise.. smh
    still waiting on some tune adjustments from patg before i can get some good iat data logs, also i have not had a chance to drain off some of the coolant and replace it with water
    MYV likes this.

  6. #5
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    small update, I was having issues with the catch can system not drawing out the vapors from my crank case. I contacted mighty mouse solutions and he advised me to drill out the 3/8 barb that was on the can. He explained to me that because of my btr3 cam, my car was not producing as much vacuum as a car with a stock cam and by drilling out this barb, allows more of a vacuum draw.

    after drilling the barb out with the 7/32 bit, I now have a slight vacuum at both valve cover barbs and also the valley cover barb
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails How To: Mighty Mouse catch can-30549912_843334479186137_1899234789_o.jpg  

  7. #6
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    Good write up. Which barb is that mate.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by cav454 View Post
    Good write up. Which barb is that mate.
    if you look at pic 3, its the smaller black barb that is on the side of the can

  9. #8
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    Very nice write up. Thank you for sharing the How-To. What are your impressions of this system so far? Thinking of ordering one of these.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by tegtke View Post
    Very nice write up. Thank you for sharing the How-To. What are your impressions of this system so far? Thinking of ordering one of these.
    so far no issues, i have not had a chance to check and see if it has caught anything or if inside the lid looks any cleaner. hopefully next week ill find a little time.

  11. #10
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    Any updates on this. Looking into buying a catch can and the Mighty Mouse one is on my list but with high price not sure it is worth it.

  12. #11
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    I sold some parts to another CTS-V owner in the Detroit area & meet him 1/2 way to deliver the parts. He had just got his V back from being worked on so he drove his V to pick the parts up. He showed me his engine & Jesus there were hoses running every where, it was so thick with hoses I couldn't see anything under them. I asked him about all the hoses & he said he had a Mighty Mouse Wild Catch Can installed was the reason. I'll stick with my Moroso & a breather cap on the oil fill tube, works, a lot simpler & cheaper too.

    When I installed the ZL1 lid there was no oil in the brick area so I didn't see any need to change catch cans, I just added the Breather cap to help out some ...
    2009 TGC Sedan / A6 / Bolt On's / Tuned / 640 RWHP 650 RWTQ On 93 Octane / Photo Album ... A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by STE\/E View Post
    I sold some parts to another CTS-V owner in the Detroit area & meet him 1/2 way to deliver the parts. He had just got his V back from being worked on so he drove his V to pick the parts up. He showed me his engine & Jesus there were hoses running every where, it was so thick with hoses I couldn't see anything under them. I asked him about all the hoses & he said he had a Mighty Mouse Wild Catch Can installed was the reason. I'll stick with my Moroso & a breather cap on the oil fill tube, works, a lot simpler & cheaper too.

    When I installed the ZL1 lid there was no oil in the brick area so I didn't see any need to change catch cans, I just added the Breather cap to help out some ...
    STEVE, How does the Moroso & breather cap work and look on your car? I'm doing the solid Isolator and an Upper Pulley install and there was a lot of oil in my SC lid. Thanks.


 

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