Speed Engineering headers
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Thread: Speed Engineering headers

  1. #1
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    Speed Engineering headers

    Just installed SE headers & x pipe to stock mufflers 3 days ago. It was a little loud for a daily. Added 3" id, 4" od glasspacks today About 20" long. Fits perfect, about half as loud rolling it on in traffic or full throttle.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Speed Engineering headers-0731191650d_1564633838386.jpg
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    Any adjustment work done to the xpipe?
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    2010 6M sedan. Ported tb, airraid intake, magnaflow exhaust, catch can. 535rwhp

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    A little bit. Had leaks at collector. Bought dynomax wide clamps with slight stepdown. Solved leaks immediately. $15 a pair on Amazon.
    Pic at collector
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Speed Engineering headers-0802192215a_1564885355696.jpg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lilredwagon View Post
    A little bit. Had leaks at collector. Bought dynomax wide clamps with slight stepdown. Solved leaks immediately. $15 a pair on Amazon.
    Pic at collector
    Did the drivers side hit the frame at all?

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lilredwagon View Post
    A little bit. Had leaks at collector. Bought dynomax wide clamps with slight stepdown. Solved leaks immediately. $15 a pair on Amazon.
    Pic at collector
    link or part number for those specific wide clamps?
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    can you post a sound video please?
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  8. #7
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    What's the best/ quality clamps for a 2.5 or 3 in. Exhaust system ?





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    Quote Originally Posted by MYV View Post
    What's the best/ quality clamps for a 2.5 or 3 in. Exhaust system ?





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    Why do you care about the best of anything in a thread on cheap headers?

    Just thinking aloud (lipstick on a pig comes to mind).


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    Quote Originally Posted by Karch View Post
    Why do you care about the best of anything in a thread on cheap headers?

    Just thinking aloud (lipstick on a pig comes to mind).


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    Quote Originally Posted by MYV View Post
    What's the best/ quality clamps for a 2.5 or 3 in. Exhaust system ?


    The best quality would be to purchase a better brand like Kooks or ARH. Then you don't have to worry about replacing the hardware with better quality pieces. It will fit right the first time.

  12. #11
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    10/4

    Thank you.

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    Only been a couple of months but how are the headers holding up?

    Looks like they are made from 304 Stainless. I assume 0.065" wall to keep cost down. Any issues with the plates warping at the heads causing exhaust leaks?

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    Quote Originally Posted by C45HFL0 View Post
    Looks like they are made from 304 Stainless.
    I have seen a review recently and the flanges were NOT stainless. Can't attest to all makes/models. It will likely be one rusty heap of metal in no time.

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    From what I have seen the warranty consists of "What do you expect for $500?"

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    I have a set and had them coated by Calico. Helps with the heat and hopefully no rust. Fitment was not bad. I still find it funny that people look down on others for buying what they can. In my case, I chose to save $1500 so I could have my heads ported. To each there on I guess.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lt1z View Post
    From what I have seen the warranty consists of "What do you expect for $500?"


    Quote Originally Posted by ericb350 View Post
    To each there on I guess.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ericb350 View Post
    I have a set and had them coated by Calico. Helps with the heat and hopefully no rust. Fitment was not bad. I still find it funny that people look down on others for buying what they can. In my case, I chose to save $1500 so I could have my heads ported. To each there on I guess.
    It's not that you cant get by on the cheap. It's just a coin flip to some extent and how much hassle you're able to tolerate, and how much work you can do on your own. Guys who drive a few times a month and flip the car in 2 years... different than a daily or something.

    Like most cheap parts, it might work - until it doesnt.

    Paying someone to install it changes the cost / benefit versus a DIY job on Jack stands too



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    Quote Originally Posted by random84 View Post
    It's not that you cant get by on the cheap. It's just a coin flip to some extent and how much hassle you're able to tolerate, and how much work you can do on your own. Guys who drive a few times a month and flip the car in 2 years... different than a daily or something.

    Like most cheap parts, it might work - until it doesnt.

    Paying someone to install it changes the cost / benefit versus a DIY job on Jack stands too



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    I understand that, however it's blanket approach to the "cheap parts are garbage motto" in peoples mind. You can spend $2k on a set of ARH headers and x pipe and it will last longer than most will keep the car. Or you can buy these and they last 5 years maybe, but at almost 4x's cheaper the cost of the others thats a bet I am willing to take. Would I cheap out on important stuff like injectors or lifters? Absolutely not. I run johnson and ID's for reference.
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    Well said.

    I went the speed engineering route as well & was able to use the savings to fund other parts for the build. Seems there's plenty of other platforms that have had no issues. To each there own.
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    I think it is good that the option exists. For some the cost is the number one factor when deciding what to purchase and you can't argue with that. Much like the fact that Harbor Freight and Snap On exist in the same world.
    Last edited by Lt1z; 09-20-2019 at 08:51 AM.
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  23. #22
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    Yes Sir budget dictates...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumdig View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by C45HFL0 View Post
    Looks like they are made from 304 Stainless.
    I have seen a review recently and the flanges were NOT stainless. Can't attest to all makes/models. It will likely be one rusty heap of metal in no time.
    Was it the same review I'm thinking about, where they use a magnet to determine that it wasn't stainless? Ferritic Stainless Steels such as grades 409, 430 and 439. Martensitic Stainless Steel such as grades 410, 420, 440, Duplex Stainless Steel such as grade 2205 are all magnetic, so it's a possibility they could actually be stainless. I doubt its 2205 because of the price, but ferritic stainless is cheaper than 304 and 316.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dbell79 View Post
    Was it the same review I'm thinking about, where they use a magnet to determine that it wasn't stainless? Ferritic Stainless Steels such as grades 409, 430 and 439. Martensitic Stainless Steel such as grades 410, 420, 440, Duplex Stainless Steel such as grade 2205 are all magnetic, so it's a possibility they could actually be stainless. I doubt its 2205 because of the price, but ferritic stainless is cheaper than 304 and 316.
    well said.

    also, this will not be Iconel.

    remember, it is "stain...less"

    the you will see color change, especially when heat is involved.

    core-ten steel will really become confusing...
    Last edited by jcs003; 09-21-2019 at 03:17 PM.

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    Stainless will become magnetic in the areas it is worked... such as on bends, stampings etc.
    A magnet will stick to the bends on my stainless Kooks headers.

    I put on a set of Speed Engineering long tube headers/full 3" duals on a 07 Chevy Tk last week.
    The entire exhaust is polished with nice tips.
    It included all bolts, gasket, new plug wires & clamps for under $900 shipped.
    I wasn't thrilled with the clamps, but otherwise it fit great. Time will tell what it looks like in a year, but for the price I was impressed.

  27. #26
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    Capitalism at it's finest.

    I appreciate keeping American companies in business but this is mandrel bent tubing, not exactly rocket science. If companies like Kooks weren't gouging based on their name and reputation than they wouldn't get undercut. They know what they are doing and it is a market strategy, plain and simple.

    I priced out the tubing and plate to see what it would cost to make a set (not that I would) and it was around $350. Mind you that is retail price not bulk wholesale prices. Now double that for labor and add some money for equipment depreciation and "R&D" and I could respect a price in the $800 - $900 range. $1,400 is insane and they know it. I say give Speed Engineering a shot. I used to feel the same way about Vizio Televisions compared to Samsung, Sony and Sharp.... Now they damn near dominate the market.

    But I still want to hear what they sound like. That will carry the day for me.

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    Double for labor?

    Thatís a presumption not founded on actual pricing.

    I donít actually care to get involved in this, but I sold tubing and mandrel bending services, and I even used to do some mandrel bending for an aerospace company while in college.




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    Quote Originally Posted by Karch View Post
    Double for labor?

    That’s a presumption not founded on actual pricing.

    I don’t actually care to get involved in this, but I sold tubing and mandrel bending services, and I even used to do some mandrel bending for an aerospace company while in college.




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    Then you know first hand that Kooks are over priced.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dbell79 View Post
    Then you know first hand that Kooks are over priced.
    Thatís just it, they arenít overpriced, they are too expensive for your budget or interest.

    If they were overpriced, they wouldnít sell.

    You alone donít determine market value, the market does. If the price is too high, they wonít sell in the quantity they need to sell them.

    Did you pay $80k for a V?


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    Quote Originally Posted by Dbell79 View Post
    Was it the same review I'm thinking about, where they use a magnet to determine that it wasn't stainless? Ferritic Stainless Steels such as grades 409, 430 and 439. Martensitic Stainless Steel such as grades 410, 420, 440, Duplex Stainless Steel such as grade 2205 are all magnetic, so it's a possibility they could actually be stainless. I doubt its 2205 because of the price, but ferritic stainless is cheaper than 304 and 316.
    I retract. 304 is typically non-magnetic but takes on magnetic properties after deformations are made to the underlying structure. Carry on...


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