HELP (Knock Retard)
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Thread: HELP (Knock Retard)

  1. #1
    Rbv
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    HELP (Knock Retard)

    **Full Disclosure** I am not super knowledgeable about this whole car build thing so if I say something wrong or terribly incorrect don't hate! I am learning this as i go, but I think I have a decent grasp of the basics.**Full Disclosure**

    Alright lets start off with some background. I took the car out last Tuesday to meet some friends and whilst making a pull on the highway I hit about 140mph and immediately knew something was not right as the car stopped pull and sounded like it was breaking up. I had recently switched to a non-ethanol 91 octane (from Quiktrip) from e85 and this was the second fill up of 91 and I was about half way thru this tank already. So I opened up the Torque app on my phone and started looking around to see what I could find out. The first thing I saw was that the car threw a P0326 code and was the knock retard was pulling timing as I was laying into the throttle more and more at most hitting 10 (which from my understanding is the most that can be pulled?, while in there I noticed the car was also misfiring more than normal, I had mentioned it to my tuner in the past and he said it is likely the cam doing that. So I limped the car home and parked it and got in contact with the tuner. His initial thought was that it was it was a bad batch of fuel or the car was adding too much timing for the weather (it was in the high 30's to low 40's that night). I was finally able to meet up with my tuner and he made a quick change to the tune taking out some timing at certain temperatures without logging the car. So for the next few days I drove the car around town and finished up this tank of gas. It is worth noting that the car seems to perfectly fine normally except for a slight knock like ~.5 to ~1 and a fairly large amount of misfires. I guess that does not make it perfectly fine but you guys get my point. When I went to refill the car I put the exact same gas that the tuner wanted which was Quiktrip 91 octane and after driving the car a bit I tried to see if the car would still knock and yes it would. It was still hitting 10 when laying into the throttle within like 1-1.5 seconds. Finally got to talk to the tuner again and he said it could be plugs, clogged injectors, or a handful of things and we are going to pull the plugs this weekend.


    After all this what are you guy's thoughts on this? I am interested to get some others input and figure out what is going on.
    2012 CTS-V Sedan

    Stage 1: 2.45 GripTech Upper, DW 90's, DSX Flex Fuel Sensor, Airaid, Catless ----> 626hp 618tq on e80
    Stage 2: Stage 2 LT1Z Cam Package, IW Balancer, 8.6' Lower ----> 670hp 640tq on e80 running out of fuel at 5800rpm
    **more dyno numbers to come after fuel issue is fully addressed**

    Best pass on stage 1: 11.6 @ 125
    Best pass on stage 2: 10.99 @ 129.8

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    I guess the easiest thing to do is to go to AutoZone and pick up some octane booster and try that out or maybe there is a station that carries higher octane at the pump. If the knock goes away then it is a mixture of the 91 octane is crap (which is true for most of the country) and the tune is too aggressively timed.

    If the knock does not go away with the octane booster, then there could be some false knock caused by metal on metal banging or some engine mechanical issues. Do you have a catch can? I have heard that too much oil in the combustion chamber causes knock.

    I had this issue with my previous car. I knew my tune was pretty close to spot on and I would still be getting five or six degrees of knock. So, I found a local station that carried 100 octane at the pump ($7.50 a gallon) and tried that out. My knock immediately went away. Then I made the switch to running E-85 full time, no more knock!
    2012 Cadillac CTS-V - Sedan - Crystal Red Tintcoat

    Transmission: Automatic - stock
    Induction: Airaid with Green Filter
    Electronics: DashLogic
    Weight: 4280 pounds with 7/16 tank of gas, no one inside

    Previous: 2013 Mustang GT - Automatic - Bolt Ons (N.A.) & E85 - 410 RWHP

  3. #3
    Rbv
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    There was a thought in the back of my mind that I should not have filled the car all the way up with 91 because I thought to test if this was happening on e85 too. It would point to some kind of mechanical failure, now I have to run this entire tank out and then go get e85 and try it. I do not have a catch can but was planning to get on in the next few weeks already.
    2012 CTS-V Sedan

    Stage 1: 2.45 GripTech Upper, DW 90's, DSX Flex Fuel Sensor, Airaid, Catless ----> 626hp 618tq on e80
    Stage 2: Stage 2 LT1Z Cam Package, IW Balancer, 8.6' Lower ----> 670hp 640tq on e80 running out of fuel at 5800rpm
    **more dyno numbers to come after fuel issue is fully addressed**

    Best pass on stage 1: 11.6 @ 125
    Best pass on stage 2: 10.99 @ 129.8

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    With the V, it shouldn't be too hard to run that tank of 91 down

    Put some E-85 in there and let us know how the knock goes. I do not know your time schedule and if you were wanting to pull plugs and injectors this weekend, but I feel that at least running a couple gallons of pure pump E-85 through will be easy troubleshooting.
    2012 Cadillac CTS-V - Sedan - Crystal Red Tintcoat

    Transmission: Automatic - stock
    Induction: Airaid with Green Filter
    Electronics: DashLogic
    Weight: 4280 pounds with 7/16 tank of gas, no one inside

    Previous: 2013 Mustang GT - Automatic - Bolt Ons (N.A.) & E85 - 410 RWHP

  6. #5
    Rbv
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    Yeah I may just drive the car to work everyday to get that to happen. The plugs were going to be this weekend too so this might just work out we will see. Will keep this thread updated
    2012 CTS-V Sedan

    Stage 1: 2.45 GripTech Upper, DW 90's, DSX Flex Fuel Sensor, Airaid, Catless ----> 626hp 618tq on e80
    Stage 2: Stage 2 LT1Z Cam Package, IW Balancer, 8.6' Lower ----> 670hp 640tq on e80 running out of fuel at 5800rpm
    **more dyno numbers to come after fuel issue is fully addressed**

    Best pass on stage 1: 11.6 @ 125
    Best pass on stage 2: 10.99 @ 129.8

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    I need about tree fiddy.
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    I know QT has/had a rep of having very poor quality gas...or at least that's was the rumor mill when I last live around them a few years a go. One thing to to do is run better quality 91, if that QT is the same has the ones we had down in Texas (and StL when I lived there). Try running Shell or Chevron 91 through there...or just keep the E...haha.

    But since 91 is all I have over here in MHK, I knew I needed more "protection" from knock (and detonation) for the V. FlexFuel is on my to do list for next year...but for now, I am running Meth to help me not put another hole in a block.


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  8. #7
    Rbv
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    Well finally pulled the plugs and..... this is the odd side from front to back. And this is the even side.

    Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
    2012 CTS-V Sedan

    Stage 1: 2.45 GripTech Upper, DW 90's, DSX Flex Fuel Sensor, Airaid, Catless ----> 626hp 618tq on e80
    Stage 2: Stage 2 LT1Z Cam Package, IW Balancer, 8.6' Lower ----> 670hp 640tq on e80 running out of fuel at 5800rpm
    **more dyno numbers to come after fuel issue is fully addressed**

    Best pass on stage 1: 11.6 @ 125
    Best pass on stage 2: 10.99 @ 129.8

  9. #8
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    That doesn't look good.
    Current mods
    Lt1z stage 2 cam - johnson lifters -Airaid CAI w/Green filter - Mamo ported TB - Corsa Sport cat backs - Weapon X Track attack HX - weaponX carbon fiber spoiler and side blades - Varimax HX pump - NGK afx wide band - 2.4 upper - Green belt - idler pulley - Id850s, Zl1 lid - NGK TR7ix - MSD wires - BB test pipes - Mighty mouse catch can - BMR ice box - Side Swipe. Tuned.
    Mod pile
    American Racing headers and Xpipe - ATI lower 8.8 ring
    Best 1/4 mile to date
    1800DA
    1.67 - 60foot
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    11.1489 - Still working on the tune

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    HALP (Knock Retard)

    Tune must be way lean or considerable detonation to consume electrodes.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by larry arizona; 12-08-2016 at 05:07 PM.
    Caddy5 likes this.
    679RWHP 662RWTQ
    BMF cam
    Ported SC/Snout/90TB
    Kooks LT w/cats stock muffs
    ID850's
    IW 9.1/2.55
    Airaid w/green filter
    Katech+W4M HX ZR1 pump
    Norcal ice tank

  11. #10
    Rbv
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    I mean knocking quite a bit.... Like a lot so that makes sense. My tuner thinks clogged injectors, BAP is not working, or the brick has failed. We are replacing the tr6's with br7ef's per the tuners recommendation.

    Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
    2012 CTS-V Sedan

    Stage 1: 2.45 GripTech Upper, DW 90's, DSX Flex Fuel Sensor, Airaid, Catless ----> 626hp 618tq on e80
    Stage 2: Stage 2 LT1Z Cam Package, IW Balancer, 8.6' Lower ----> 670hp 640tq on e80 running out of fuel at 5800rpm
    **more dyno numbers to come after fuel issue is fully addressed**

    Best pass on stage 1: 11.6 @ 125
    Best pass on stage 2: 10.99 @ 129.8

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    Welp, that isn't good. At least your engine *might* not be seriously damaged.
    2012 Cadillac CTS-V - Sedan - Crystal Red Tintcoat

    Transmission: Automatic - stock
    Induction: Airaid with Green Filter
    Electronics: DashLogic
    Weight: 4280 pounds with 7/16 tank of gas, no one inside

    Previous: 2013 Mustang GT - Automatic - Bolt Ons (N.A.) & E85 - 410 RWHP

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    Dammit. Looks like another "tuner" fuckup. Sorry but you need to find a new tuner. It might be too late though from the looks of those plugs.

    It's not bad gas, it's a bad tune. Or let me elaborate and give another reason... It could be a hardware failure or limitation, but that's part of tuning. How does your tuner know anything about how it was running? Are you sending him logs? Is he reading those logs and giving you updated tune files or recommending hardware changes/fixes? Tuning without logging is negligent tuning. And holy crap, how many guesses did he give you? Anyone can name a bunch of engine components and system parts that could be the cause. He honestly can't tell the difference between clogged injectors, BAP failed or brick failed? Yikes.

    DO NOT just try to put in colder plugs, that's not the solution. Colder plugs is more often the bandaid people put on a bad tune. Sure, if you're talking about a track only car you shouldn't run stock heat range plugs, but like yours, 90% of these cars are street driven and should have no problem running on stock heat range plugs.

    Your next step needs to be a compression check. Make sure you didn't do damage to the pistons. If you did, changing fuels or plugs or guessing at causes is pointless. Sorry to be harsh, it just pisses me off when I see things like those plugs. For me it's kind of like a doctor looking at a kid who cracked his skull open because he wasn't wearing a helmet when he fell off his bike. Damage or injury when taking risks may not be totally preventable, but pretty damn close to it in those two examples.

    edit-
    Hey Rbv, I just re-read your "full disclosure". Don't take what I said personally. I don't expect every car owner to know all this tuning crap. I DO expect that any decent tuner should be able to convey the importance of logging and if nothing else, getting you comfortable with that. You don't need to know what you're looking at, that's his job. So sorry if it sounded like I was "hating" on you, I wasn't. I have a problem with "tuners" that don't take modifying somebodies ~$13k engine VERY seriously. There are huge risks when doing this kind of modifications. If your tuner stressed that to you and you ignored it, that's on you. If he didn't stress the risks and preventative measures that could be taken, that's on him.
    Last edited by gmtech16450yz; 12-09-2016 at 01:24 PM.
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    Rbv
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    First thanks for the input gmtech! I really do appreciate it. I do understand the importance of logging. The first text I sent my tuner when all of this happened was me explaining what happened and asking to setup a time for us to log the car. He just never made time for it. Back to the car though we took the plugs out and did a compression test and luckily all cylinders tested fine. The lowest was 145 and the highest was 155 and all others fell between those. My friend and I pulled the tune the other night and we were dinking around and noticed the high octane and low octane table had quite a bit of timing in them, from my understanding there two tables control the timing for the car on pump gas and e85? At a high airmass (which I assume meant in boost) around redline and a bit before the car was seeing 26-28 degrees of timing on both tables. Which makes sense to us because after we did the plugs the other night we went and drove the car and saw the car would be steady at 19-20 degrees and be pulling 6+ with knock. So my tuner said he will pull timing out when he gets back into town after logging the car.
    2012 CTS-V Sedan

    Stage 1: 2.45 GripTech Upper, DW 90's, DSX Flex Fuel Sensor, Airaid, Catless ----> 626hp 618tq on e80
    Stage 2: Stage 2 LT1Z Cam Package, IW Balancer, 8.6' Lower ----> 670hp 640tq on e80 running out of fuel at 5800rpm
    **more dyno numbers to come after fuel issue is fully addressed**

    Best pass on stage 1: 11.6 @ 125
    Best pass on stage 2: 10.99 @ 129.8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rbv View Post
    First thanks for the input gmtech! I really do appreciate it. I do understand the importance of logging. The first text I sent my tuner when all of this happened was me explaining what happened and asking to setup a time for us to log the car. He just never made time for it. Back to the car though we took the plugs out and did a compression test and luckily all cylinders tested fine. The lowest was 145 and the highest was 155 and all others fell between those. My friend and I pulled the tune the other night and we were dinking around and noticed the high octane and low octane table had quite a bit of timing in them, from my understanding there two tables control the timing for the car on pump gas and e85? At a high airmass (which I assume meant in boost) around redline and a bit before the car was seeing 26-28 degrees of timing on both tables. Which makes sense to us because after we did the plugs the other night we went and drove the car and saw the car would be steady at 19-20 degrees and be pulling 6+ with knock. So my tuner said he will pull timing out when he gets back into town after logging the car.
    Good, I'm glad you took it as input and not hating! I try to not let anything in life get to me but this kind of thing is one thing that always hits a nerve with me. What you found in the tune is exactly what I was talking about. I'm going to put it bluntly because that's kinda how I am, so here it is... Your "tuner" is incompetent.

    I don't beat around the bush do I? haha. So with just that tiny little find you and your buddy made in the tune, you've discovered how a huge percentage of VERY expensive engines get destroyed by incompetent, negligent and irresponsible tuning. Two things stand out in your discovery. First is the fact that your tuner has basically disabled any chance of your computer being able to save itself from excessive knock, and secondly, it shows that he has no idea how to tune for E85.

    Find yourself a new tuner. DO NOT mess with trying to have that guy "fix" what he's created. You need to start from scratch with a totally stock tune and have somebody modify it properly. DO NOT drive the car without fixing this. There is still a chance that internal engine damage was done. Just keep in mind that what's on the line is an engine that will take at the very least, ~$5k to fix if it's damaged. More likely you'll end up spending over $10k if you blow the engine, and that's if you do all the R&R work yourself. If that's fine with you or you want to build a new engine anyway, that's fine with me too. If not, please be careful with how you proceed with this situation. I don't give a shit about "tuners" that destroy engines with their inept modifications. I care about regular guys that pay a lot of money to put their engine's well being in someone else's hands only to end up paying way more money to fix what that person destroyed. That's fucked up.
    Check out my V8 Sky build video. It's pretty cool!...

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    Another e85 tune with upwards of 28 degrees of timing in it. As others said in another thread, If it's knocking while running e85 it's already too late...
    Current mods
    Lt1z stage 2 cam - johnson lifters -Airaid CAI w/Green filter - Mamo ported TB - Corsa Sport cat backs - Weapon X Track attack HX - weaponX carbon fiber spoiler and side blades - Varimax HX pump - NGK afx wide band - 2.4 upper - Green belt - idler pulley - Id850s, Zl1 lid - NGK TR7ix - MSD wires - BB test pipes - Mighty mouse catch can - BMR ice box - Side Swipe. Tuned.
    Mod pile
    American Racing headers and Xpipe - ATI lower 8.8 ring
    Best 1/4 mile to date
    1800DA
    1.67 - 60foot
    125.24 mph - 1/4
    11.1489 - Still working on the tune

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    Quote Originally Posted by t.j.t View Post
    Another e85 tune with upwards of 28 degrees of timing in it. As others said in another thread, If it's knocking while running e85 it's already too late...
    That's not even the part that scares me t.j.t. It's the 28 degrees of timing it was seeing when running on 91 that's scary!!! I'm not looking at the tune obviously but it sure sounds like it would have been running at 28 degrees on 91 pump gas even if the flex sensor was setup properly on the other tables. I'm guessing it was running horribly lean on E85 and massively excessive ignition timing when on 91. Just a guess of course but the plugs certainly don't tell a story of a failed brick like the tuner suggested.
    Check out my V8 Sky build video. It's pretty cool!...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rbv View Post
    Well finally pulled the plugs and..... this is the odd side from front to back. And this is the even side.

    Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
    Wow. Motor is hungry
    2009 6MT - 708hp E63CORN-634hp/637tq 93 octane - stock cam-- 2.5/91 - ported blower/snout/90mm LS7 Mamo TB - Track Attack HX - Norcal Ice box - FIC 1000 - JMS BAP- Dsteck FF - MM catch can - ZL1 lid - AirAid Green Filter - pocket protector/side swipe-Kooks 1 7/8 Headers - 22in resonators - SW catback

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    Chomp chomp


    I wonder what the pistons look like...
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    Rbv
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    Unfortunately the car is going to go back to him today to make some adjustments and I will report back. I just don't have the funds to get it completely retuned from scratch atm. The retune will more than likely happen around February. I was leaning toward Rick Crawford or lstuner.com. Only thing with Rick would be that I need to buy hptuners for the whole remote tuning thing. I have seen a couple posts that say you yourself tune for a very select few cars gmtech?
    2012 CTS-V Sedan

    Stage 1: 2.45 GripTech Upper, DW 90's, DSX Flex Fuel Sensor, Airaid, Catless ----> 626hp 618tq on e80
    Stage 2: Stage 2 LT1Z Cam Package, IW Balancer, 8.6' Lower ----> 670hp 640tq on e80 running out of fuel at 5800rpm
    **more dyno numbers to come after fuel issue is fully addressed**

    Best pass on stage 1: 11.6 @ 125
    Best pass on stage 2: 10.99 @ 129.8

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    Let's see, find a new tuner and $5-600 or trust same tuner and risk further damage.

    I know which one I would pick.




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    t.j.t likes this.
    679RWHP 662RWTQ
    BMF cam
    Ported SC/Snout/90TB
    Kooks LT w/cats stock muffs
    ID850's
    IW 9.1/2.55
    Airaid w/green filter
    Katech+W4M HX ZR1 pump
    Norcal ice tank

  22. #21
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    Not sure why it had TR6 in it anyway. That is still stock heat range.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rbv View Post
    Unfortunately the car is going to go back to him today to make some adjustments and I will report back. I just don't have the funds to get it completely retuned from scratch atm. The retune will more than likely happen around February. I was leaning toward Rick Crawford or lstuner.com. Only thing with Rick would be that I need to buy hptuners for the whole remote tuning thing. I have seen a couple posts that say you yourself tune for a very select few cars gmtech?
    This is silly, how much will it cost you if it blows up like Larry Arizona said. Common...
    Current mods
    Lt1z stage 2 cam - johnson lifters -Airaid CAI w/Green filter - Mamo ported TB - Corsa Sport cat backs - Weapon X Track attack HX - weaponX carbon fiber spoiler and side blades - Varimax HX pump - NGK afx wide band - 2.4 upper - Green belt - idler pulley - Id850s, Zl1 lid - NGK TR7ix - MSD wires - BB test pipes - Mighty mouse catch can - BMR ice box - Side Swipe. Tuned.
    Mod pile
    American Racing headers and Xpipe - ATI lower 8.8 ring
    Best 1/4 mile to date
    1800DA
    1.67 - 60foot
    125.24 mph - 1/4
    11.1489 - Still working on the tune

  24. #23
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    Do not return to that tuner.

    If you do, you have nobody to blame but yourself.


    CNC ported blowers, heads from WCCH, new Eaton rotor packs for your LSA blower, Mamo ported throttle bodies and more:
    Sales@dynamicflowconcepts.net
    Dynamicflowconcepts.net
    http://dynamicflowconcepts.net/t/superchargers

    2010 Thunder Gray sedan, A6, ebony recaros, LPE 650 (well, sort of), AR headers with (blown out) cats, 22" Magnaflow resonators, 9.1/2.5" pulleys, ID1000's, ZL1 Lid, CNC ported blower, WCCH heads, Mamo Motorsports custom cam, 102mm TPIS TB, DSteck Flex Fuel module, ZR1 HX pump, custom HX tube set, Fluidyne 3X HX,4.5" intake tube, FlyingV installation

  25. #24
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    Get HPT and a wideband and get it
    done correctly by Pat G or Crawford if doing it remotely

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
    2009 6MT - 708hp E63CORN-634hp/637tq 93 octane - stock cam-- 2.5/91 - ported blower/snout/90mm LS7 Mamo TB - Track Attack HX - Norcal Ice box - FIC 1000 - JMS BAP- Dsteck FF - MM catch can - ZL1 lid - AirAid Green Filter - pocket protector/side swipe-Kooks 1 7/8 Headers - 22in resonators - SW catback

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rbv View Post
    Unfortunately the car is going to go back to him today to make some adjustments and I will report back. I just don't have the funds to get it completely retuned from scratch atm. The retune will more than likely happen around February. I was leaning toward Rick Crawford or lstuner.com. Only thing with Rick would be that I need to buy hptuners for the whole remote tuning thing. I have seen a couple posts that say you yourself tune for a very select few cars gmtech?
    Haha, I was waiting for that last part! Sorry, I don't tune for private parties or for money. I will try to help you as much as I have time for though. And I'll look at the tune or logs if you'd like too, for free. I'm not here to make money, that's not my deal. I don't mind helping people out if they're in a bad situation or want to learn though.

    Like others have said, please don't let that tuner do any more damage. You CAN'T afford it. You can't look at the price of a tune, you need to be looking at the price of an engine. The engine will live or die with the tune, simple as that. Have somebody put some wrong numbers in a table and the engine will die. Ask some of these guys what it's cost to rebuild after blowing an LSA. It's not cheap.

    If you can borrow the HPTuners hardware, or better yet, spend the money on buying one yourself, you can send me the tune or logs and I'll give you an idea on how bad it is. The HPTuners forum is also a wealth of information and there's guys there that will help if you ask nicely. Again, you can't afford the HPTuners hardware? What's cheaper, $500 worth of tuning and logging ability or having to figure out what to do with a $13k blown up LSA?
    Check out my V8 Sky build video. It's pretty cool!...

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  27. #26
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    If no other damage, like broken rings, pistons, damaged cylinder walls, head gaskets, you have to be concerned about rod bearings, perhaps even crank bearings.

    Send your oil out to get analyzed, and watch your oil pressure.


    CNC ported blowers, heads from WCCH, new Eaton rotor packs for your LSA blower, Mamo ported throttle bodies and more:
    Sales@dynamicflowconcepts.net
    Dynamicflowconcepts.net
    http://dynamicflowconcepts.net/t/superchargers

    2010 Thunder Gray sedan, A6, ebony recaros, LPE 650 (well, sort of), AR headers with (blown out) cats, 22" Magnaflow resonators, 9.1/2.5" pulleys, ID1000's, ZL1 Lid, CNC ported blower, WCCH heads, Mamo Motorsports custom cam, 102mm TPIS TB, DSteck Flex Fuel module, ZR1 HX pump, custom HX tube set, Fluidyne 3X HX,4.5" intake tube, FlyingV installation

  28. #27
    Rbv
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    Well I guess I should provide an update on the happenings today. So I got to the shop and my tuner plugged his laptop into the car and the first thing he did was take timing of the car at WOT. Now while he was adjusting this table we started talking about what my friend and I saw when we pulled the tune. Turns out we were wrong the car is not seeing 26-28 he showed me the numbers on the table that he was changing and they were 24 degree's and he changed them to 20 degrees. He then pulled the log of when the car was tuned on pump gas and showed me that it was holding a steady 24 degrees throughout the pull. So he then put the misfires onto the logging channels and began to log the car. He left it in park and held the car at 2000 and 3000 rpm and cylinders 3 and 8 were like counters, they just kept going up. There were misfires on other cylinders but no where near as bad as 3 and 8. Next we pulled the injectors on cylinders 1, 3, 5, 7. As we were pulling them out we noticed that after pulling the rail injector number 3 was leaking just a but after pulling it out. We took the injectors out and let them drip onto a paper towel to see if we could see any noticeable dirt or particles, we tried tapping them on the table (the non spraying side) too and nothing. We tried to get a hold of a local shop that could clean the injectors and flow them but we could not get it done today.

    Once we figured we could not get the injectors done today we figured we would just put the car back together and attempt to do it later in the week. As I was getting help from a friend to put the injectors back in we made a very interesting notification. All the injectors I have are not the same. I purchased Fuel Injector Connection injectors from LT1Z back when I did my first round of mods. Upon further inspection we noticed that the part numbers on the injectors are not all the same either. 2 of the injectors looked like this the the other two did not have that tab there. So after comparing the part numbers we were taking closer look at the tips of the injectors and we think that there is a hairline crack on the tip of the injectors. We have no way to make sure of this so we are just waiting until we get them flowed. This point goes back to the point I made earlier regarding the dripping that we saw when we pulled the rail.

    At this point I have gone through all of your comments and first I really do appreciate everyones input no matter what it is. I will be investing in HPTuners and attempting to get you some of the information you were looking for GMTech so feel free to shoot me with a PM with your email and what not so we can get in touch. The part that I do no understand was that the car on e85 was amazing. I put about 3000 miles on the car after it was initially tuned with the tune it has now. Absolutely no hickups or issues EVER (just never ran it on pump gas) and I think that is why I am continuing to give this tuner a chance to correct everything that is happening, but at the same time everyone in this post is correct. I am in no place to buy a new motor for the car nor do I want to so...yeah. It will take time but it will get retuned. I will continue to keep you guys updated on the happenings! Thanks again everyone!
    Last edited by Rbv; 12-11-2016 at 06:41 PM.
    2012 CTS-V Sedan

    Stage 1: 2.45 GripTech Upper, DW 90's, DSX Flex Fuel Sensor, Airaid, Catless ----> 626hp 618tq on e80
    Stage 2: Stage 2 LT1Z Cam Package, IW Balancer, 8.6' Lower ----> 670hp 640tq on e80 running out of fuel at 5800rpm
    **more dyno numbers to come after fuel issue is fully addressed**

    Best pass on stage 1: 11.6 @ 125
    Best pass on stage 2: 10.99 @ 129.8

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    Thanks for the update.

    24* on 91 octane on boost is very high. I think most guys running 93 run up to 22*, but not positive.


    CNC ported blowers, heads from WCCH, new Eaton rotor packs for your LSA blower, Mamo ported throttle bodies and more:
    Sales@dynamicflowconcepts.net
    Dynamicflowconcepts.net
    http://dynamicflowconcepts.net/t/superchargers

    2010 Thunder Gray sedan, A6, ebony recaros, LPE 650 (well, sort of), AR headers with (blown out) cats, 22" Magnaflow resonators, 9.1/2.5" pulleys, ID1000's, ZL1 Lid, CNC ported blower, WCCH heads, Mamo Motorsports custom cam, 102mm TPIS TB, DSteck Flex Fuel module, ZR1 HX pump, custom HX tube set, Fluidyne 3X HX,4.5" intake tube, FlyingV installation

  30. #29
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    I run up to 21 on 93 octane but my tune is conservative, im also sure every car is different.

    All the best, remember its your car and money, dont get talked into something you arent willing to pay the consequences for.
    Current mods
    Lt1z stage 2 cam - johnson lifters -Airaid CAI w/Green filter - Mamo ported TB - Corsa Sport cat backs - Weapon X Track attack HX - weaponX carbon fiber spoiler and side blades - Varimax HX pump - NGK afx wide band - 2.4 upper - Green belt - idler pulley - Id850s, Zl1 lid - NGK TR7ix - MSD wires - BB test pipes - Mighty mouse catch can - BMR ice box - Side Swipe. Tuned.
    Mod pile
    American Racing headers and Xpipe - ATI lower 8.8 ring
    Best 1/4 mile to date
    1800DA
    1.67 - 60foot
    125.24 mph - 1/4
    11.1489 - Still working on the tune

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    91 will usually only take 18* or so on boost up top. Less at the tq peak.


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