Holy shit!! My roof is LEAKING!! HELP!!!!
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Thread: Holy shit!! My roof is LEAKING!! HELP!!!!

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    Holy shit!! My roof is LEAKING!! HELP!!!!

    Hey guys,

    Apparently there was a little known Cadillac option for it to rain INSIDE the car, but I'm not sure how to turn it off, lol. I remember reading about clogged drains in sunroof cars, but never got off my ass to check them. Now El Niño is here and I'm screwed.

    Help me, QUICK!!

    Pretty please.















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    Oh boy. Posts like this made me happy I held out for a non sunroof car.

    Have you tried checking the drain to see if it's clogged up? Save your interior, is there any other car you can drive around while it's raining?
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    Check the drains and hoses connecting to the drains. If you remove the rear panel you'll be able to access the drain. Mine did the same in the rear. I used heat shrink tube and it hasn't leaked since. Goodluck.
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    Quote Originally Posted by hornetraider View Post
    Oh boy. Posts like this made me happy I held out for a non sunroof car.

    Have you tried checking the drain to see if it's clogged up? Save your interior, is there any other car you can drive around while it's raining?
    Haven't found out how to. Any help? And this is my only car, but I'm in my wife's to pick up our daughter from school.

    Quote Originally Posted by Black_V21 View Post
    Check the drains and hoses connecting to the drains. If you remove the rear panel you'll be able to access the drain. Mine did the same in the rear. I used heat shrink tube and it hasn't leaked since. Goodluck.
    Thanks man. Now, what rear panel? And how is it removed??
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    Last edited by ASteggall; 01-05-2016 at 12:13 PM.

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    Off topic, but where did the sun go?

    Who stole it?



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    You da man, much appreciated!

    Quote Originally Posted by Karch View Post
    Off topic, but where did the sun go?

    Who stole it?

    Not off topic at all! I need it back too! My cars sweating like a whore in church!
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    It POURED today... and another storm coming!
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    whiney bitches
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    I haven't had trouble with mine but if I did, I would be tempted to just vinyl wrap the whole roof including the sunroof and be done with it.
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    Besides clogged sunroof drains or disconnected drain tubes from the sunroof assembly the most common problem from the rear of the sunroof is the way GM made the endcaps.
    The rear of the sunroof has plastic end caps that are riveted/bolted to the sunroof frame and then to seal them they used a small strip of butyl tape. After some time this tape dries out and allows the water that is flowing in the sunroof water management troughs start to leak water onto the headliner.
    Basically you have to reseal the rear endcaps and address the drains tubes.
    I'm sure GMs accountants are more to blame than the engineers are for using butyl tape but who knows.

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    Thanks for all the info, guys!

    Is there anyone local to Los Angeles who could help me with this?
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    Can you pull the headliner panel yourself? It's not too hard, but tedious.



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    Ultraview Sunroof Water Leak in Passenger Floor Area

    Try using a turkey baster as a “toilet plunger” and work the drain with water in it. Try the ol’ “in and out” routine until it hopefully forces the water and debris out the drain line. Then the light bulb went off. With the drain lines full of water along with the sunroof tray, I put the turkey baster directly on the drain hole and started pumping. I started feeling some resistance and then the clog finally gave way. A perfect stream of water was now flowing onto the driveway at the bottom of wheel well.
    OR
    Use thick monofilament or weed wacker line to run through the 4 drains. Smooth out the cut end of the line with sandpaper to help it slide through the drains.

    Open sunroof.

    Front: Take a cup of water and carefully pour into front drain channel to gauge initial drain rate. Use weed wacker line and rod out front drains from roof. The front drain lines run down the "A" pillars and exit out the side (behind the fender) about a foot below the top of the dash, about 3-1/2 feet. Pour more water and observe draining. Run weed wacker line again. Repeat until satisfied. You should notice the run off puddling behind the front wheels and may also observe dirt/sludge/algae that was in the lines.

    Rear: The rear drain lines run down the "C" pillars into the trunk and exit out the rear wheelhouses. Peel back the sides of the trunk liner to access the drain lines. The right rear drain line can be seen by removing the battery access cover, but it is difficult to work with unless you peel back the liner. Detach the rear lines from the wheel well grommets and run weed wacker line up the drain lines. The distance from the drain outlet to the sunroof is about 4-1/2 feet. Place the drain line in a bucket or bottle. Carefully pour water into the side drain channels of the sunroof. You may want to have someone pour water in the channels while you observe the flow into the bucket/bottle. Run weed wacker line again. Repeat until satisfied.

    All sunroofs leak some water and that leak off is normally handled by the drain lines. IMO this sunroof is a flawed design for two reasons. (1) The fixed portion of the sunroof uses the same type of perimeter seal the moving portion uses and therefore doubles the amount of leak off compared to a standard sunroof; (2) The drain lines are undersized even for a standard sized sunroof. As a result of this, the drain lines, at best, are barely adequate for a light rain. Throw in a little bit of clogging and a more intense rain and we get what we all complain about. After constantly cleaning lines and still living with leaks, I removed my headliner to see if I could resolve this problem. I replaced all four lines with 1/2" I.D. tubing in place of the factory 1/4" I.D. and have had zero leakage even in a total downpour (I live in Florida).

    Use 1/2" I.D - 5/8" O.D. clear hose from any hardware store. I considered 3/8", but why not not use the largest size that will fit?

    The 4 drain nipples on the corner of the sunroof are 1/2” O.D. There is a grommet on each corner that reduces them to 3/8” O.D. to fit the original drain lines. The clear hose fit perfectly on the sunroof nipples once the reducer was removed. There are clips on the stock hose that keep them in place (2 in the rear and 3 in front - 2 on "A" pillar, 1 under dash). Remove the clips from the stock hose, tape precut lengths of new hose to them (roof side) and then pull the whole thing through the trunk and underdash, respectively. Place a grommet around the front lines and secure the grommet to the existing inner fender holes. The fronts were a pain to get to and you have to slightly enlarge the hole to accomadate the larger grommet. The rears were easy. Secure the new hose to a 1/2” nipple and push it through the existing wheelhouse grommet.

    Removing and reinstalling the interior parts (especially the headliner) takes patience and took the longest time, but is not overly difficult. I removed the headliner from my car, but I would recommend leaving it in and trying to work around it. There are two electrical harnesses that are glued to the headliner that I had to remove and then reattach when installing.

    Originally Posted by loosend
    What so you mean about the 1 under the dash and how does that one come into play? Is it the AC condenser drain tube or related to the sunroof? How do you get to that one under the dash?

    The nylon clips clamp around the hose and then push into a body hole with a barbed end. In order to pull the stock hoses out you have to remove these clips. The front hoses have two clips on the "A" pillar that are easily removed. There is a third hose clip that can only be removed by reaching under the dash. The sunroof drains only drain the sunroof.

    *Remove the front kick panels (these are the plastic side panels under the dash - to the left of the driver's feet, right of the passenger's feet.
    *Remove under dash trim plates - plastic panels under driver and passenger dash area - both have lights that need to be unplugged. Passenger side has airbag control module (I think it was) that needs to be unplugged also.
    *Once these panels are removed, reach up and peel back the carpeting from the outer corners. The carpeting has attached insulation and is fairly rigid so takes a little effort to move. On the driver’s side there is also a styrofoam wedge (dead pedal) that I found easier to remove and then glue back to the carpeting.
    *With a light, look up under the dash to the now exposed side area (I ended up on my back for this part). You should see the drain hose coming down (if you follow the hose up you should now see the third clip) and then going through an access hole and finally plugging into a grommet in the inner fender. Tugging a little on the drain hose from above (while you're lying under the dash) may help to identify what you are looking at.

    But wait! There's more! From ThunderCad…Hey everyone, I think I may have figured how to keep your Ultraview roof equipped CTS bone dry regardless of the cloudburst or carwash. Earlier this Spring I was cleaning the interior of my car and heard the definite sound of stepping in water when i put my foot down behind the driver's seat. Nuts! Alright, so I found a few threads here regarding cleaning the drain tubes. I picked up a rear derailleur cable instead of weed whacker line and sure enough, when I pulled the trunk trim from the driver's side and disconnected the drain tube about two cups of water emptied into a container I had ready. Great! OK, I pushed the 6 foot long cable up through both rear lines, pours cups of water and watched all four drains do what they're supposed to. Last weekend I did a spot check up the same area of the back seat with my hand like I have dozens of times before after rain and DAMN IT, another puddle, only six weeks after I cleared the lines.

    Alright, so I pulled the trunk trim and again and sure enough, when I pulled the drain tube there was some water backed up. So I fed the cable first up the tube, then again down the rubber grommet the line plugs into. I notice this time resistance I hadn't before. I pulled the grommet from the rear wheel wheel arc the sheet metal and low and behold, the drain tube plugs into a rubber piece that seals flat. Some of you already knew this, but I quickly found a way to get around it. Have a look at the photo. I carefully turned the grommet upside down, (note the word TOP upside down on the grommet) then inserted the drain tube into the proper sized hole in the rubber piece, plugged with a red cap. I then put the cap into the hole designed for the drain tube and I now have a proper terminating drain tube. It turns out that technically it's not the drain tubes getting plugged up, but where they terminate getting clogged. Tale care to NOT pull down on the drain tube when relocating it to the other hole or you may risk disconnecting it from the sunroof drain. There is just enough tube to connect into the shallow hole when the grommet has been turned upside down first.

    Once I swapped the holes the I poured a liter of water into the drain channel and it POURS out behind the rear wheel instead of dribbling. My guess is that the design is supposed to open just enough to allow drainage when the tube fill up halfway under the weight of the water, but after a few years the rubber hardens and it just can't keep up with clearing the water in time before it overflows the channels and does a number on the interior. You can honestly do both rear drains in less than minutes, without making make any cuts or mods to the grommet, and then never worry about rain or a carwash becoming a problem in the future.

    Where exactly are the drain tubes/grommets located? They're on either side of the trunk, mounted to the lower rear wheel hump. The trim comes off very easily- two screw caps and two plastic 'grab tabs'.

    I should mention that the second hole which is unused and capped on the driver side is used for battery gas ventilation on the passenger side, but you just relocate that thin tube into the flat drain tube hole and push it in so that it clear the flat end. This really is a simple job, so it's unfortunate that some have had to pay ridiculous amount of money to have headliners pulled and the Ultraview roofs realigned, and drain tubes cleaned when the problem all along is how the drain tubes terminate into a grommet that stops working properly. I haven't pulled the wheel well splashguards to look at the front drain tube grommets but I bet that they're the same flat seal design. I really don't even worry about them now because the rears now drain so effortlessly. I'll still push the rear derailleur cable down them a few times a year but that's it.

    …and more from ThunderCad…
    I think I may have figured how to keep your Ultraview roof equipped CTS bone dry regardless of the cloudburst or carwash. I was cleaning the interior of my car and heard the definite sound of stepping in water when I put my foot down! I found a few threads here regarding cleaning the drain tubes. I picked up a rear derailleur cable instead of weed whacker line and sure enough, when I pulled the trunk trim from the driver's side and disconnected the drain tube about two cups of water emptied into a container I had ready. Great! OK, I pushed the 6 foot long cable up through both rear lines, pour some water and I watched all four drains do what they're supposed to. Last weekend I did a spot check up the same area of the back seat with my hand like I have dozens of times before after rain and DAMN IT, another puddle, only six weeks after I cleared the lines.

    Alright, so I pulled the trunk trim and again and sure enough, when I pulled the drain tube there was some water backed up. So I fed the cable first up the tube, then again down the rubber grommet the line plugs into. I notice this time resistance I hadn't before. I pulled the grommet from the rear wheel wheel arc the sheet metal and, low and behold, the drain tube plugs into a rubber piece that seals flat. Some of you already knew this, but I quickly found a way to get around it. Have a look at the photo. I carefully turned the grommet upside down, (note the word TOP upside down on the grommet) then inserted the drain tube into the proper sized hole in the rubber piece, plugged with a red cap. I then put the cap into the hole designed for the drain tube and I now have a proper terminating drain tube. It turns out that technically it's not the drain tubes getting plugged up, but where they terminate getting clogged. Take care to NOT pull down on the drain tube when relocating it to the other hole or you may risk disconnecting it from the sunroof drain. There is just enough tube to connect into the shallow hole when the grommet has been turned upside down first.

    Once I swapped the holes I poured water into the drain channel and it POURS out behind the rear wheel instead of dribbling. My guess is that the design is supposed to open just enough to allow drainage when the tube fill up halfway under the weight of the water, but after a few years the rubber hardens and it just can't keep up with clearing the water in time before it overflows the channels and does a number on the interior. You can honestly do both rear drains in less than minutes, without making make any cuts or mods to the grommet, and then never worry about rain or a carwash becoming a problem in the future.

    Sunroof Drain Inspection and Cleaning
    Drain Hose Routing
    Note: If the headliner is wet DO NOT remove any interior trim. Do the Plugged Drain Hose test first.
    A drain trough encircles the sunroof window panel and water is drained off by the drain hoses located at each corner of the housing. A drain channel spans across the sunroof module at the rear of the window panel and directs water into the trough.
    The front drain hoses are routed down the windshield pillars and out the center of the pillar between the door hinges. The front hoses are installed in a rubber grommet and retained by clips.
    The rear drain hoses are routed through the rear pillars and out of the rocker panel. In some vehicle the drain hoses are routed out through the metal roof slots and routed to the lower wheelhouse to drain out of the vehicle. The rear hoses are installed in a rubber grommet and retained by clips.
    Plugged Drain Hose (from AllData)

    If a waterleak has occurred check for a plugged drain hose at each corner of drainage system.

    Open the sunroof window.
    To test for blockage, pour a small container of water into the module housing drain trough. Check each corner to confirm the drain hose is draining water.

    Warning: Wear safety glasses in order to avoid eye damage.

    Use compressed air, 241 kPa (35 psi) or less to blow out any drain hose that is plugged.
    Test the system again.
    If the hose remains plugged, check to see it is properly routed and does not have a kink. Refer to Sunroof Housing Front Drain Hose Replacement (See: Removal and Replacement\Sunroof Housing Front Drain Hose Replacement) or Sunroof Housing Rear Drain Hose Replacement (See: Removal and Replacement\Sunroof Housing Rear Drain Hose Replacement).
    Remove the blockage using the following steps.

    Push mechanics wire through the hose to remove the obstruction.
    Use compressed air in order to blow out any remaining material.

    Disconnected Drain Hose

    Inspect the drainage system for disconnected drain hoses. Complete the following steps in order to obtain partial access to drain hoses and check for a disconnected hose.

    Open the sunroof window panel.
    Lower the headliner as needed. Refer to Headlining Trim Panel Replacement (Wagon) (See: Interior Moulding / Trim\Headliner\Service and Repair)Headlining Trim Panel Replacement (Sedan) (See: Interior Moulding / Trim\Headliner\Service and Repair).
    Connect any disconnected hoses.
    Ensure that the rear drain hoses are properly routed in the metal roof slot and taped in place.
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    Quote Originally Posted by tinman View Post
    Ultraview Sunroof Water Leak in Passenger Floor Area

    Try using a turkey baster as a “toilet plunger” and work the drain with water in it. Try the ol’ “in and out” routine until it hopefully forces the water and debris out the drain line. Then the light bulb went off. With the drain lines full of water along with the sunroof tray, I put the turkey baster directly on the drain hole and started pumping. I started feeling some resistance and then the clog finally gave way. A perfect stream of water was now flowing onto the driveway at the bottom of wheel well.
    OR
    Use thick monofilament or weed wacker line to run through the 4 drains. Smooth out the cut end of the line with sandpaper to help it slide through the drains.

    Open sunroof.

    Front: Take a cup of water and carefully pour into front drain channel to gauge initial drain rate. Use weed wacker line and rod out front drains from roof. The front drain lines run down the "A" pillars and exit out the side (behind the fender) about a foot below the top of the dash, about 3-1/2 feet. Pour more water and observe draining. Run weed wacker line again. Repeat until satisfied. You should notice the run off puddling behind the front wheels and may also observe dirt/sludge/algae that was in the lines.

    Rear: The rear drain lines run down the "C" pillars into the trunk and exit out the rear wheelhouses. Peel back the sides of the trunk liner to access the drain lines. The right rear drain line can be seen by removing the battery access cover, but it is difficult to work with unless you peel back the liner. Detach the rear lines from the wheel well grommets and run weed wacker line up the drain lines. The distance from the drain outlet to the sunroof is about 4-1/2 feet. Place the drain line in a bucket or bottle. Carefully pour water into the side drain channels of the sunroof. You may want to have someone pour water in the channels while you observe the flow into the bucket/bottle. Run weed wacker line again. Repeat until satisfied.

    All sunroofs leak some water and that leak off is normally handled by the drain lines. IMO this sunroof is a flawed design for two reasons. (1) The fixed portion of the sunroof uses the same type of perimeter seal the moving portion uses and therefore doubles the amount of leak off compared to a standard sunroof; (2) The drain lines are undersized even for a standard sized sunroof. As a result of this, the drain lines, at best, are barely adequate for a light rain. Throw in a little bit of clogging and a more intense rain and we get what we all complain about. After constantly cleaning lines and still living with leaks, I removed my headliner to see if I could resolve this problem. I replaced all four lines with 1/2" I.D. tubing in place of the factory 1/4" I.D. and have had zero leakage even in a total downpour (I live in Florida).

    Use 1/2" I.D - 5/8" O.D. clear hose from any hardware store. I considered 3/8", but why not not use the largest size that will fit?

    The 4 drain nipples on the corner of the sunroof are 1/2” O.D. There is a grommet on each corner that reduces them to 3/8” O.D. to fit the original drain lines. The clear hose fit perfectly on the sunroof nipples once the reducer was removed. There are clips on the stock hose that keep them in place (2 in the rear and 3 in front - 2 on "A" pillar, 1 under dash). Remove the clips from the stock hose, tape precut lengths of new hose to them (roof side) and then pull the whole thing through the trunk and underdash, respectively. Place a grommet around the front lines and secure the grommet to the existing inner fender holes. The fronts were a pain to get to and you have to slightly enlarge the hole to accomadate the larger grommet. The rears were easy. Secure the new hose to a 1/2” nipple and push it through the existing wheelhouse grommet.

    Removing and reinstalling the interior parts (especially the headliner) takes patience and took the longest time, but is not overly difficult. I removed the headliner from my car, but I would recommend leaving it in and trying to work around it. There are two electrical harnesses that are glued to the headliner that I had to remove and then reattach when installing.

    Originally Posted by loosend
    What so you mean about the 1 under the dash and how does that one come into play? Is it the AC condenser drain tube or related to the sunroof? How do you get to that one under the dash?

    The nylon clips clamp around the hose and then push into a body hole with a barbed end. In order to pull the stock hoses out you have to remove these clips. The front hoses have two clips on the "A" pillar that are easily removed. There is a third hose clip that can only be removed by reaching under the dash. The sunroof drains only drain the sunroof.

    *Remove the front kick panels (these are the plastic side panels under the dash - to the left of the driver's feet, right of the passenger's feet.
    *Remove under dash trim plates - plastic panels under driver and passenger dash area - both have lights that need to be unplugged. Passenger side has airbag control module (I think it was) that needs to be unplugged also.
    *Once these panels are removed, reach up and peel back the carpeting from the outer corners. The carpeting has attached insulation and is fairly rigid so takes a little effort to move. On the driver’s side there is also a styrofoam wedge (dead pedal) that I found easier to remove and then glue back to the carpeting.
    *With a light, look up under the dash to the now exposed side area (I ended up on my back for this part). You should see the drain hose coming down (if you follow the hose up you should now see the third clip) and then going through an access hole and finally plugging into a grommet in the inner fender. Tugging a little on the drain hose from above (while you're lying under the dash) may help to identify what you are looking at.

    But wait! There's more! From ThunderCad…Hey everyone, I think I may have figured how to keep your Ultraview roof equipped CTS bone dry regardless of the cloudburst or carwash. Earlier this Spring I was cleaning the interior of my car and heard the definite sound of stepping in water when i put my foot down behind the driver's seat. Nuts! Alright, so I found a few threads here regarding cleaning the drain tubes. I picked up a rear derailleur cable instead of weed whacker line and sure enough, when I pulled the trunk trim from the driver's side and disconnected the drain tube about two cups of water emptied into a container I had ready. Great! OK, I pushed the 6 foot long cable up through both rear lines, pours cups of water and watched all four drains do what they're supposed to. Last weekend I did a spot check up the same area of the back seat with my hand like I have dozens of times before after rain and DAMN IT, another puddle, only six weeks after I cleared the lines.

    Alright, so I pulled the trunk trim and again and sure enough, when I pulled the drain tube there was some water backed up. So I fed the cable first up the tube, then again down the rubber grommet the line plugs into. I notice this time resistance I hadn't before. I pulled the grommet from the rear wheel wheel arc the sheet metal and low and behold, the drain tube plugs into a rubber piece that seals flat. Some of you already knew this, but I quickly found a way to get around it. Have a look at the photo. I carefully turned the grommet upside down, (note the word TOP upside down on the grommet) then inserted the drain tube into the proper sized hole in the rubber piece, plugged with a red cap. I then put the cap into the hole designed for the drain tube and I now have a proper terminating drain tube. It turns out that technically it's not the drain tubes getting plugged up, but where they terminate getting clogged. Tale care to NOT pull down on the drain tube when relocating it to the other hole or you may risk disconnecting it from the sunroof drain. There is just enough tube to connect into the shallow hole when the grommet has been turned upside down first.

    Once I swapped the holes the I poured a liter of water into the drain channel and it POURS out behind the rear wheel instead of dribbling. My guess is that the design is supposed to open just enough to allow drainage when the tube fill up halfway under the weight of the water, but after a few years the rubber hardens and it just can't keep up with clearing the water in time before it overflows the channels and does a number on the interior. You can honestly do both rear drains in less than minutes, without making make any cuts or mods to the grommet, and then never worry about rain or a carwash becoming a problem in the future.

    Where exactly are the drain tubes/grommets located? They're on either side of the trunk, mounted to the lower rear wheel hump. The trim comes off very easily- two screw caps and two plastic 'grab tabs'.

    I should mention that the second hole which is unused and capped on the driver side is used for battery gas ventilation on the passenger side, but you just relocate that thin tube into the flat drain tube hole and push it in so that it clear the flat end. This really is a simple job, so it's unfortunate that some have had to pay ridiculous amount of money to have headliners pulled and the Ultraview roofs realigned, and drain tubes cleaned when the problem all along is how the drain tubes terminate into a grommet that stops working properly. I haven't pulled the wheel well splashguards to look at the front drain tube grommets but I bet that they're the same flat seal design. I really don't even worry about them now because the rears now drain so effortlessly. I'll still push the rear derailleur cable down them a few times a year but that's it.

    …and more from ThunderCad…
    I think I may have figured how to keep your Ultraview roof equipped CTS bone dry regardless of the cloudburst or carwash. I was cleaning the interior of my car and heard the definite sound of stepping in water when I put my foot down! I found a few threads here regarding cleaning the drain tubes. I picked up a rear derailleur cable instead of weed whacker line and sure enough, when I pulled the trunk trim from the driver's side and disconnected the drain tube about two cups of water emptied into a container I had ready. Great! OK, I pushed the 6 foot long cable up through both rear lines, pour some water and I watched all four drains do what they're supposed to. Last weekend I did a spot check up the same area of the back seat with my hand like I have dozens of times before after rain and DAMN IT, another puddle, only six weeks after I cleared the lines.

    Alright, so I pulled the trunk trim and again and sure enough, when I pulled the drain tube there was some water backed up. So I fed the cable first up the tube, then again down the rubber grommet the line plugs into. I notice this time resistance I hadn't before. I pulled the grommet from the rear wheel wheel arc the sheet metal and, low and behold, the drain tube plugs into a rubber piece that seals flat. Some of you already knew this, but I quickly found a way to get around it. Have a look at the photo. I carefully turned the grommet upside down, (note the word TOP upside down on the grommet) then inserted the drain tube into the proper sized hole in the rubber piece, plugged with a red cap. I then put the cap into the hole designed for the drain tube and I now have a proper terminating drain tube. It turns out that technically it's not the drain tubes getting plugged up, but where they terminate getting clogged. Take care to NOT pull down on the drain tube when relocating it to the other hole or you may risk disconnecting it from the sunroof drain. There is just enough tube to connect into the shallow hole when the grommet has been turned upside down first.

    Once I swapped the holes I poured water into the drain channel and it POURS out behind the rear wheel instead of dribbling. My guess is that the design is supposed to open just enough to allow drainage when the tube fill up halfway under the weight of the water, but after a few years the rubber hardens and it just can't keep up with clearing the water in time before it overflows the channels and does a number on the interior. You can honestly do both rear drains in less than minutes, without making make any cuts or mods to the grommet, and then never worry about rain or a carwash becoming a problem in the future.

    Sunroof Drain Inspection and Cleaning
    Drain Hose Routing
    Note: If the headliner is wet DO NOT remove any interior trim. Do the Plugged Drain Hose test first.
    A drain trough encircles the sunroof window panel and water is drained off by the drain hoses located at each corner of the housing. A drain channel spans across the sunroof module at the rear of the window panel and directs water into the trough.
    The front drain hoses are routed down the windshield pillars and out the center of the pillar between the door hinges. The front hoses are installed in a rubber grommet and retained by clips.
    The rear drain hoses are routed through the rear pillars and out of the rocker panel. In some vehicle the drain hoses are routed out through the metal roof slots and routed to the lower wheelhouse to drain out of the vehicle. The rear hoses are installed in a rubber grommet and retained by clips.
    Plugged Drain Hose (from AllData)

    If a waterleak has occurred check for a plugged drain hose at each corner of drainage system.

    Open the sunroof window.
    To test for blockage, pour a small container of water into the module housing drain trough. Check each corner to confirm the drain hose is draining water.

    Warning: Wear safety glasses in order to avoid eye damage.

    Use compressed air, 241 kPa (35 psi) or less to blow out any drain hose that is plugged.
    Test the system again.
    If the hose remains plugged, check to see it is properly routed and does not have a kink. Refer to Sunroof Housing Front Drain Hose Replacement (See: Removal and Replacement\Sunroof Housing Front Drain Hose Replacement) or Sunroof Housing Rear Drain Hose Replacement (See: Removal and Replacement\Sunroof Housing Rear Drain Hose Replacement).
    Remove the blockage using the following steps.

    Push mechanics wire through the hose to remove the obstruction.
    Use compressed air in order to blow out any remaining material.

    Disconnected Drain Hose

    Inspect the drainage system for disconnected drain hoses. Complete the following steps in order to obtain partial access to drain hoses and check for a disconnected hose.

    Open the sunroof window panel.
    Lower the headliner as needed. Refer to Headlining Trim Panel Replacement (Wagon) (See: Interior Moulding / Trim\Headliner\Service and Repair)Headlining Trim Panel Replacement (Sedan) (See: Interior Moulding / Trim\Headliner\Service and Repair).
    Connect any disconnected hoses.
    Ensure that the rear drain hoses are properly routed in the metal roof slot and taped in place.



    How in the hell do you access the rear drivers side drain line in a wagon? Also does anyone know the exact length of the drain tubes? I opened the battery compartment and I pulled the drain line from the grommet on the rear passenger side and ran weedeater plastic thread into the tube and I'm curious if I made it all the way through.
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    I have no fucking clue about the driver's side rear drain. I just did my wagon drain lines and could only get 3 out of 4.
    As for the passenger rear, I separated the connection in the battery area and went both up then down and out. I could see the weed wacker line to verify.
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    Quote Originally Posted by tinman View Post
    I have no fucking clue about the driver's side rear drain. I just did my wagon drain lines and could only get 3 out of 4.
    As for the passenger rear, I separated the connection in the battery area and went both up then down and out. I could see the weed wacker line to verify.
    So you actually saw the weed eater wire come out by the sunroof? I ran some up the passenger side like that from the battery compartment but I never saw it come out, but it went probably almost 4 feet in.
    Performance add on
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    I can't actually remember if I went from sunroof down to battery compartment area or vice-versa, but, yes, I did see the weed wacker line. Then I definitely went from battery compartment area out the bottom by the wheel well
    '14 V Wagon 6MT
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    When this happened to my '09 the top two switches on the passenger side that control the AC "up" temp, and the seat heater quit working. Apparently this is another feature built in to our sunroof'ed V's. The switches are not bad, it fries a control module and requires its replacement. Best I could tell was that it is caused by the electrical connectors wet behind the removal panel to the right of the AC vent (on the passenger side). I am looking for that control module right now because my dealer can't seem to locate one. Part# 25835212.

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    Tinman - is it possible to glue the old line with the new line and then pull the old line out, pulling in the new line at the same time? So from the rear trunk by the battery area...once the two pieces of tubing are glued together, pull the old tubing out through the battery area? Once the new tubing is visible in the battery area, just cut off the old tubing an finish up?

    The pertinent question would be is the current factory tubing snapped/tapped into place or loose? Great idea to install larger tubing to prevent clogs!

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    Some people just have to complain about the least little problems!

    Throw some bass inside and fish on your lunch breaks! Practice "catch n release"!

    Quote Originally Posted by Sommer86 View Post
    Hey guys,

    Apparently there was a little known Cadillac option for it to rain INSIDE the car, but I'm not sure how to turn it off, lol. I remember reading about clogged drains in sunroof cars, but never got off my ass to check them. Now El Niño is here and I'm screwed.

    Help me, QUICK!!

    Pretty please.















    Sommer86 likes this.

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    Not sure how I missed this thread.

    My sunroof drains down the passenger C Pillar, I took it to the dealer twice under warranty, they accepted the work, and when I picked it up both times they advised the service manager determined it was not a warranty issue, I asked for a explanation, the service manager was unavailable, I was advised he would get back to me, I am still waiting for that call two years later. Same manager advised me vibrating rear brake lights with chipped paint on deck, no suede on wheel and shifter, paint lifting off hood, chrome rims pitted, rear window off track, USB Port non-functioning, rubber trim on body between doors falling off, passenger air bag service light, headlamps retaiining moisture, etc...

    I then took the car, out of warranty, to another dealership, explained the incompetence of the two previous dealer visits, also showed the car's GM service history, with the same problem being fixed under warranty at 10K and 19K miles--obviously it was never fixed. This dealer kept the car for six days, said they were unable to replicate the problem, their opinion of the stained pillar sail was that someone the back seat must have spilled something on it--great reply.

    It was never fixed, am tired of dealers and their bullshit, mine still leaks on same C-pillar as it did at 10K miles, also comes through the speaker holes in the center console above my head, I like a challenge but water splashing on your hands and face while driving at 80mph is not one of them. Also, if car is parked outside during rainstorm, I usually have to wait about 30 minutes after running the AC or putting the windows down for the condensation to clear from the windshield and back window to drive safely.

    FCUK GM, FCUK the stealerships, I will keep the car due to HP and mod-friendly, but I will never buy in to it being a cadillac with great luxury and reliability, it is at best on par with my daughters' $25K Jetta and $23K Beetle, and lags far behind the wife's $31K Fusion.

    /RANT
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    In the rear the tubing slips over a male nipple. It's easy to see for yourself to make your own judgement call.

    Next time I detail my wheels and pull them off the car I am going to cut the outlet flap from the drains. That is the culprit in all of this.
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    I did a web search on the module part number and turned up several of them (and also this thread). Price is about $330 online. Your dealer should have one from a local warehouse in a day or two.

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    Mine was not from clogged drain tubes, I had the leak at the back pass rear and it was the ultraview rear glass rubber seals that wrap around the rear glass.

    Way to go GM .... my old 86 TA had the same issue with the T-top seals... LOL

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    Those old T-tops were notorious for leaks. Neat idea, but the execution was poorly done.
    '14 V Wagon 6MT
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    Quote Originally Posted by tinman View Post
    In the rear the tubing slips over a male nipple.
    Personally I like my nipples to be of the female variety. Not looking forward to when this happens on my wagon. It's 2016, they can't figure out how to manufacture a sunroof that doesn't leak?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Conflicted View Post
    It's 2016, they can't figure out how to manufacture a sunroof that doesn't leak?
    Well, maybe gm figured it out, as they did increase the price by 25+% on V3, one would think the additional cost was for a better engineered and more reliable car.
    '05 C6.R MSM M6 LS3 418ci F1x E85|Tech=Jamie/Race Part Solutions and Josh/Deubel Products| COMPLETE REBUILD UNDER WAY, PERFECTION CANNOT BE RUSHED, OR BUDGETED!!
    ***WARNING, WHEN THE VENDOR TELLS YOU BOLT-ON, ADD ABOUT 10 HOURS OF FABRICATION, RE-ENGINEERING AND BEER TIME!!

    '10 CTS-V BR 6M 4D, NOT STOCK, GOAL=800+RWHP, BUDGET=TBD

    '05 CTS-V, 383ci 510rwhp/560rwtq, 162 in 1-MILE,,, SOLD!!! BADDEST V1 ON PLANET EARTH, 6.5 YEARS OF JOY,,, AND HEADACHES!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by scottcane View Post
    Some people just have to complain about the least little problems!

    Throw some bass inside and fish on your lunch breaks! Practice "catch n release"!
    We don't have stores to go buy Bass in Burbank, LOL..... so i just went for a swim.....while driving. With kids. At least my daughter thought it was cool.
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    It's all a matter of weatherstripping. Because of the handling ability of the V chassis, the roof flexes more than that of the ordinary CTS. The weatherstripping and sunroof drain lines must be laid to accommodate this. In most of them, they are.

    A good body shop should be able to re-weatherstrip and/or re-lay the drain lines so that they stay sealed.


 
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