What a terrible night. Use jack stands! - Page 2
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Thread: What a terrible night. Use jack stands!

  1. #31
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    Glad you are ok. Investing if a good jack is near the top of the list if working on your car(s) at home.

    I use this on low cars and it has served me well.

    http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...9613_200329613
    Last edited by Lt1z; 12-05-2016 at 09:19 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ENV MN View Post
    Did you use this Quickjack 5000 on the V? If so where did you jack from? I am going to a friends house to use his to do the diff and trans fluids next week (and possibly brakes). I want to make sure that it does work on a CTSV Wagon/Sedan.
    The Quickjack 5000 works just fine with the V. I don't remember exactly where I put the rubber blocks when I had the wagon up but I THINK I was able to put them exactly where they should be (factory jack points).
    2014 Black Diamond Wagon, M6, Stage IV baby seat mod.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Botch316 View Post
    The Quickjack 5000 works just fine with the V. I don't remember exactly where I put the rubber blocks when I had the wagon up but I THINK I was able to put them exactly where they should be (factory jack points).
    That's great news! Looking forward to trying it out.

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    I needed a low profile jack on the quick ad I broke my 'no harbor freight" tools pledge. after reading all this I am going to chuck it and buy a made in 'merica' one. It is impossible to find good tools that are not made in China. Everything from China as it relates to tools is absolute crap.

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    I'm glad this thread got revived. I've been working under a leaking floor jack for a while. Been meaning to go get another one and was looking at the HF model. I think this Christmas is gonna bring me a ranger jack.
    '13 BD Vagon, manual trans, recaros, alcantara, sunroof, yellow calipers.
    2.4 pulley, ID850's, headers and 3" full exhaust, Zl1 lid, ported LS7 TB, airraid w/ green filter, varimax, track attack hx, catch can and custom icebox.

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    Yeah this happened quite a while back during the first time I went to work on the v. Since then I bought a good quality Jack and use Jack stands and wood blocks I made as a second fail safe. It's a pain to be this cautious but I'm much more comfortable under the car after this happened.
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    Guys, we all need to be safe. Shit happens in literally a second. We cut corners and the outcome is expensive and painful.. ask me how I know lol..

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    This is why I always slide any removed tires under the car also. Just as a back up
    Blown376 likes this.

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    I've seen a good QJ5000 in person, but this thread post had me dying the last time I was doing research. Lmfao..

    https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo...e/91630/page1/
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    Just ordered the quick jack from northern tool. They are doing $100 towards future purchase as promo as well.
    2009 6MT - 708hp E63CORN-634hp/637tq 93 octane - stock cam-- 2.5/91 - ported blower/snout/90mm LS7 Mamo TB - Track Attack HX - Norcal Ice box - FIC 1000 - JMS BAP- Dsteck FF - MM catch can - ZL1 lid - AirAid Green Filter - pocket protector/side swipe-Kooks 1 7/8 Headers - 22in resonators - SW catback

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    I live 200' from the San Andres Faultline.

    I ALWAYS put at least one wheel under a framerail AFTER jackstanding before I get under a car. You should start doing the same.

    If an act of god knocks a car off a jackstand, the wheel will save your life, as the metal wheel will catch the car 9-11" (the width of the wheel) off the ground and avoid head trauma, collapsed lungs, exploded organs, and a generally bad day.

    JP
    t.j.t likes this.

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    Damn, I'm a lot closer than that.


    CNC ported blowers, heads from WCCH, new Eaton rotor packs for your LSA blower, Mamo ported throttle bodies and more:
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    Quote Originally Posted by c55asleep View Post
    Guys, we all need to be safe. Shit happens in literally a second. We cut corners and the outcome is expensive and painful.. ask me how I know lol..
    Ok I'll bit... How do you know??
    2011 6m wagon
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    573rwhp / 579rwtq corrected







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    Quote Originally Posted by JD_SS View Post
    Ok I'll bit... How do you know??
    Well, at my previous job an employee outside work was trying to get a car started. Tried the "good old trick" let me hit the starter till it starts. That's fine but, he couldn't get under the car without having to lift it. He put the jack under it, jacked it up some and didn't put anything under it thinking it would be very quick. Just tap on the starter and haul azz from under there. It failed and the car landed on his chest. Sternum got fractured along with some other bruising. He was out of work for 7 months. As for myself, not jack related but has cost me a lot of money and pain lol. November 8 I decided to finish installing the headers and the exhaust. Cutting corners I decided to use my grinder and removed the shield to put a bigger cutting wheel. It was to cut the last section of the stock exhaust. Grinder kicked back and cut the front lower part of left leg. Moral of the story, we gotta take our time and not cut any corners. I've been dealing with this for almost a month. Been out of work since and just yesterday had to get the wound restitched.. sorry for the long post lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by ENV MN View Post
    Did you use this Quickjack 5000 on the V? If so where did you jack from? I am going to a friends house to use his to do the diff and trans fluids next week (and possibly brakes). I want to make sure that it does work on a CTSV Wagon/Sedan.
    I have the newest Quickjack 5000 SXL? Whatever the letters are - this model has all the updated fittings and whatnot that the negative review threads addressed several years ago. It works great on my Wagon for wheel swaps, exhaust removal, driveshaft replacement, etc - no ATF leaks and very easy to use. Shipping was surprisingly fast. I place the front jacking blocks just ahead of the front door seam (you can feel the flat spot for the factory jacking point there) and that also aligns the rear reasonably well.

    It WILL be a little snug getting the trans out from the bottom; as the car only gets raised 22" or so off the ground from the rails, so another couple of inches if you count the exhaust you have to remove anyway. You can use larger spacer blocks, etc but honestly just lower the trans onto a decent trans jack and it will roll out.

    I use a creeper to get around under mine and it's very easy and secure. I WILL still use jack stands as a fail safe, but I'm paranoid - there are mechanical stops built into the Quickjack but it's so easy to throw some stands under I figure why not.

    Remember these "Chinese shit" threads the next time you want to order knock-off cylinder heads. lol.
    Last edited by random84; 12-06-2016 at 06:43 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by random84 View Post
    I have the newest Quickjack 5000 SXL? Whatever the letters are - this model has all the updated fittings and whatnot that the negative review threads addressed several years ago. It works great on my Wagon for wheel swaps, exhaust removal, driveshaft replacement, etc - no ATF leaks and very easy to use. Shipping was surprisingly fast. I place the front jacking blocks just ahead of the front door seam (you can feel the flat spot for the factory jacking point there) and that also aligns the rear reasonably well.

    It WILL be a little snug getting the trans out from the bottom; as the car only gets raised 22" or so off the ground from the rails, so another couple of inches if you count the exhaust you have to remove anyway. You can use larger spacer blocks, etc but honestly just lower the trans onto a decent trans jack and it will roll out.

    I use a creeper to get around under mine and it's very easy and secure. I WILL still use jack stands as a fail safe, but I'm paranoid - there are mechanical stops built into the Quickjack but it's so easy to throw some stands under I figure why not.

    Remember these "Chinese shit" threads the next time you want to order knock-off cylinder heads. lol.
    I'm not taking whole transmission out, just swapping trans fluid. Good clearance for that?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
    2012 CTS-V 6MT VAGON "Harambe" - Stock for now....
    2012 C63 AMG Sedan - Every option (P31 and lighting package)/Eurocharged tune/and much more (FOR SALE)

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    Should be easy

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    I learned this lesson the easy way. Back in the sixties, I was going to use mom and dad's garage to put a clutch in my Volvo. Nobody had floor jacks in those days, so I was using the car's screw jack to raise it high enough to put wood blocks under the tires. I had the car just high enough for the last block when it suddenly rolled backwards off the jack, hit the tilt-up door, opened it, and rolled out onto the driveway. Scared the hell out of me, but no damage done to anything. I got my first floor jack and stands in the early seventies and always use them. After I get the car set up on the stands, I grab the bumper and shake the car as hard as I can before crawling under.
    Last edited by not2old; 12-06-2016 at 08:49 AM. Reason: spelling

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    Quote Originally Posted by c55asleep View Post
    Well, at my previous job an employee outside work was trying to get a car started. Tried the "good old trick" let me hit the starter till it starts. That's fine but, he couldn't get under the car without having to lift it. He put the jack under it, jacked it up some and didn't put anything under it thinking it would be very quick. Just tap on the starter and haul azz from under there. It failed and the car landed on his chest. Sternum got fractured along with some other bruising. He was out of work for 7 months. As for myself, not jack related but has cost me a lot of money and pain lol. November 8 I decided to finish installing the headers and the exhaust. Cutting corners I decided to use my grinder and removed the shield to put a bigger cutting wheel. It was to cut the last section of the stock exhaust. Grinder kicked back and cut the front lower part of left leg. Moral of the story, we gotta take our time and not cut any corners. I've been dealing with this for almost a month. Been out of work since and just yesterday had to get the wound restitched.. sorry for the long post lol

    Damn! Ok I'll bite again.. pics?
    2011 6m wagon
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    metco 2.4" upper
    metco 100mm idler
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    573rwhp / 579rwtq corrected







  20. #50
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    This is the second time it's been stitched
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails What a terrible night. Use jack stands!-img_6046.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by JD_SS View Post
    Damn! Ok I'll bite again.. pics?
    The original injury is pretty gross. The one I put isn't as graphic lol..

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    yikes.. hope that heals up ok!!
    2011 6m wagon
    mamo ported throttle body
    metco 2.4" upper
    metco 100mm idler
    id850's
    dsteck flex fuel kit
    green filter cai
    borla catback
    core shifter
    ruskiyab reinforced zl1 lid
    -12an hose conversion

    573rwhp / 579rwtq corrected







  23. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by JD_SS View Post
    yikes.. hope that heals up ok!!
    Thanks. Worst part is, car has been sitting in the backyard for two months.

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    Wow, that'll learn ya! Hope you're back on your feet soon.
    2009 CTS V Black Raven Sedan, M6, Recaro's, Ultraview
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    Wow! Glad that you are ok


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    Mmmm..looks meaty...

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    Guy 3 houses down from me died when his truck he was working on fell on him. Not sure if it was faulty jack or what. My wife talked to his wife and she wasn't exactly sure but the police determined it was either a faulty jack or stand that was the culprit.

    With that said I've been using the same Harbor Freight 3 ton floor jack for years and hasn't failed me yet. Of course I use jack stands if I'm gonna be under the car or I drive it up on ramps. Got some HF bottle jacks that I use for my toy hauler and they work great. I'm not gonna spend hundreds of dollars on a hydraulic pump I guess is what I'm saying. But jack failure is a very real thing so be safe out there
    2012 WDC - 2.5 upper, ID850s, 90mm TB, DMS FF sensor, Airaid, C&R HX, Varimax, SW headers, catted midpipe, Corsa axle back, 20x9 & 20x11 Rohanna RC10s 255/295 MPSS 534/505 on gas 586/548 on E50

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    Glad you are ok bro, my dad forgot to pull the parking brake when we were doing a rotor install back in 1989. The corolla fell when I was pulling on the rotor. The rotor and car fell and missed my foot by inches. I was lucky. I looked like him like I almost died. I have a lift now and scared the car will fall on top of my head. I try to work fast. Prob not a good thing.
    2009 A6 sedan, a little bit of Zoom Zoom

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    Given the topic of this thread, I'm wondering if any of you have input as to what brands are quality jacks? It seems all of the quality jacks I've ever used are 20+ years old without visible markings on them... I'm not much interested in the ranger as my long-term plans include a 2-post lift. Obviously the harbor freight special is crap and anymore, I don't trust sears/craftsman this much.

    At the moment I'm just looking for a quality 2-3 ton jack that's low profile (fit under a lowered V) with a foot pedal. I plan on buying a crew cab diesel in a few years, so if I could spend a lil more $$ and get something to stand the test of time, that'd be even better.
    2012 BDT Sedan - Recaro's, Ultraview, A6
    Airaid, EE catchcan, 2.4", TR7IX, ported LS7 TB, ported snout, ID850's, ARH LT's, Vadder Destroyer HX & CWA50 pump, ZL1 lid w/-12AN fittings.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 94383Z71 View Post
    Given the topic of this thread, I'm wondering if any of you have input as to what brands are quality jacks? It seems all of the quality jacks I've ever used are 20+ years old without visible markings on them... I'm not much interested in the ranger as my long-term plans include a 2-post lift. Obviously the harbor freight special is crap and anymore, I don't trust sears/craftsman this much.

    At the moment I'm just looking for a quality 2-3 ton jack that's low profile (fit under a lowered V) with a foot pedal. I plan on buying a crew cab diesel in a few years, so if I could spend a lil more $$ and get something to stand the test of time, that'd be even better.
    What is your opposition to the Harbor Freight 2-ton low profile floor jack? https://goo.gl/nKoUsi

    Is it a high quality jack? I guess that's subjective, but it has served many a V owner well over the years...

    If you want a high quality floor jack, you need to purchase Made in USA. However, most Made in USA crap is "global products assembled in the US," so you are still primarily getting chinese junk, but you are paying a lot more for it because it has a sticker on it saying it was made here. If you truly are getting Made in USA stuff, you are paying a hefty premium for it... think $1,000+ for a floor jack. At that cost point, I'd feel inclined to save the money and apply to a 2-post lift.

    That all being said, if I were you, I'd go with the Harbor Freight 2 ton low profile floor jack (lots of forum members have had great luck with it), make sure its bled properly (I think lack of bleeding is the cause of many jack problems/failures) and make sure you are safe about it, ie, leave tires on while jacking and until car is secured on jack stands.

    If the jack fails, you can easily get it exchanged at your local Harbor Freight and if you are safe about it, you don't risk getting hurt or damaging your car if it fails at some point.

    FWIW, I've had no problems at all (knock on wood) with my Harbor Freight floor jack (same one I linked you to). But, I bled it thoroughly before my first use.
    Last edited by JD_SS; 01-12-2017 at 12:00 PM.
    2011 6m wagon
    mamo ported throttle body
    metco 2.4" upper
    metco 100mm idler
    id850's
    dsteck flex fuel kit
    green filter cai
    borla catback
    core shifter
    ruskiyab reinforced zl1 lid
    -12an hose conversion

    573rwhp / 579rwtq corrected








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